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<font size=3>Hi Pianoman,<br>
You may have several issues working against you. I have
just finished do some research for SMC on vertical pianos that had
similar problems, The general consensus was that there was a
geometry problem..<br><br>
After checking all kinds of parameters the solution ended up being very
simple.<br><br>
The Balance rail hole was way too tall. ( 7mm on some models.) Ream
the B/R hole down to 4mm and reduce the dip from 11mm to 10mm. The
problem pianos play beautifully.<br><br>
If the hole is too tall, the pin starts to bind in the hole making let
off and after touch very ill defined. This will be very noticeable
on ppp playing.<br><br>
Balance rail hole height, dip, F/R cloth punching, and after touch are
all interactive.<br><br>
From empirical data from 1000's of keys measured, I have come to the
following conclusion.<br>
A spruce key needs only 4MM of key height, Maple shoe keys 3mm
height.<br>
The only manufacturer that I have found to be consistently correct
has been the Yamaha Corp.<br>
Samick after last August key production, has been corrected, and a
separate QC check is in place to monitor the measurement.<br><br>
This single measurement is probably the most critical of all measurements
in how any action feels. It also has a dramatic effect on note to note
consistency if the mortice is poorly machined.<br><br>
On the manufacturing side, rate of feed, frequency of changing the
router bits, chip out cleaning etc. All have an effect on the
quality of the mortice.<br><br>
The only visible problem.
mmmmmmmmmmmm Your quote: The hole height is
hidden in the bottom of the mortice. ;-)<br><br>
The reaming tool is available from Pianotech, or Jurgen<br><br>
Keep your finger firmly on the bottom of the hole and ream away until the
tip touches your finger. It only takes 30min to do a key
board.<br><br>
<br>
Hope this helps<br>
roger<br><br>
<br>
At 12:22 AM 4/7/2006, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Hi List,<br>
<br>
I took a breather from the list because business has been pretty good,
and wht do I see in my mailbox? 637 messages from
pianotech... Wish I'd had the time to read them all!<br>
<br>
I have recently encountered an interesting problem in a few Seiler
uprights. Last week it was in a 132, probably 2 years old.
This week it was a 122, similar vintage. Both were purchased as new
from a dealer within the last 7-8 months. I've also seen this
problem with a few Seilers of slightly older vintage.<br>
<br>
What's happening is that the backchecks are checking the hammers a bit
too close--like right into the string, if you push on the key a tad, or
on a soft blow where the hammer rebounds slowly and gets smushed into the
string by the backcheck.<br>
<br>
There is adequate lost motion. In one of them, there was negative
lost motion, but the problem persisted after regulation of lm<br>
Let off is good, right around 3-4mm<br>
<br>
The only VISIBLE problem is the checks are regulated way too close.
<br>
<br>
After making the the lost motion was okay, I regulated so checking around
10 mm. It works fine. It's strikes me as odd that this would
happen, because they weren't that way at the first tunings.
Granted, we are having a wet winter, but I can't fathom how humidity
could cause this. They are both in relatively stable environments.<br>
<br>
About 4 years ago, I dealt with a Seiler that had this, and many other
regulation problems seemingly caused by environment. AFter
regulation, the piano has been quite stable.<br>
<br>
Anybody with similar experiences with these pianos?<br>
<br>
Have a great weekend, <br>
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