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<P><FONT SIZE=2>I feel like I just sat through a masters' class. I will print this out and do some highlighting, and pin up next to the work bench.<BR>
Thanks<BR>
<BR>
-----Original Message-----<BR>
From: Andrew and Rebeca Anderson [<A HREF="mailto:anrebe@sbcglobal.net">mailto:anrebe@sbcglobal.net</A>]<BR>
Sent: Sun May 07 10:08:19 2006<BR>
To: Pianotech List<BR>
Subject: RE: Question from a rank amatuer<BR>
<BR>
Chris,<BR>
When you regulate this you will want to have your hammers reshaped to<BR>
a strike-point (as opposed to a long flat zone), sharper in the<BR>
treble and broader in the bass (check out MotherGoose tools for a<BR>
cool hammer shaping/fitting tool). This may take off 1/8" inch or<BR>
more. You may then regulate a sample setting the capstan to get<BR>
about 1&7/8" blow distance and start key-dip at about 3/8" and<BR>
let-off between 1/8" and 1/16" of an inch below the strings (close is<BR>
nice for controlled pianissimo playing but sensitive to humidity--not<BR>
so nice). Look at how it works as you depress the key. The jack<BR>
should come clear of the hammer shank knuckle without slamming into<BR>
the rail. You want the back edge of the jack to line up with the back<BR>
edge of the spline in the knuckle and to rapidly reset under the<BR>
knuckle each cycle. Room to reset under the knuckle is a balance<BR>
lever adjustment. In regulating you start from common measurements<BR>
and then change them little by little on the sample to what works<BR>
best for the action in front of you.<BR>
You can decrease/increase blow distance a little depending how things<BR>
work. I'd not be inclined to decrease key-dip below 3/8". It may be<BR>
possible but I think undesirable to go really short on the dip. This<BR>
is probably why the dampers were set so early (too early<BR>
now). Damper under-lever timing is customarily set at 1/2 key travel<BR>
or 3/16" dip in this example. Early feels heavy and late feels<BR>
light. Too late and the damper wedges will still damp the middle<BR>
unisons in the tenor when the key is fully depressed. Too early and<BR>
the levers will rest on the backs of the keys and the felt will not<BR>
be in heavy enough contact with the strings to fully damp them. You<BR>
can put 3/16" of punchings under a key and measure the height of the<BR>
back of the key when it has bottomed out. Do this at several<BR>
locations to get a good average. You may find some really warped<BR>
keys that will have to be regulated separately from the rest. You<BR>
can then table saw a piece of wood to that height (bottom of action<BR>
rail to top of key) dimension and then slip it under the damper<BR>
underlevers, loosen the screw, let the damper down/up to the strings<BR>
and tighten using pliers to hold the wire and keep it from<BR>
twisting. If they do twist use a second plier to grip the lever and<BR>
then twist the damper back into alignment with the strings.<BR>
My reference to teflon was regarding lubricating the leather to<BR>
leather contact of the repetition lever and the knuckle. [This is a<BR>
Brambach, for everyone who is getting cross-eyed about now... ;-)]<BR>
I had to CA treat the tuning pins in the bass section of this piano<BR>
as they were too loose to stay put after tuning. I tape aluminum<BR>
foil to the underside of the block to contain any glue that might<BR>
seep all the way through, hours later sometimes. It is easily<BR>
removable next time you pull the action and good prevention in drier<BR>
climes where CA glue might not all set up before you re-insert the<BR>
action. Search the archives and you will find a tale of woe<BR>
regarding seep through.<BR>
I'm to regulate this piano sometime in the as yet unscheduled future<BR>
and I'm going to be sure and take a camera with me then. I was<BR>
pleasantly surprised with how nice it was overall.<BR>
There are plenty of experts who will have (and should offer)<BR>
commentary to this with details I failed to verbalize.<BR>
<BR>
Good luck,<BR>
Andrew Anderson<BR>
<BR>
At 12:14 AM 5/7/2006, you wrote:<BR>
>It was actually the early notion of mass production that first<BR>
>interested me in this piano. It is not unlike similar currents that<BR>
>were happening in the world of architecture at the same time.<BR>
><BR>
>At first, I thought this piano had had quite a hard life. The top<BR>
>was ripped from its hinges, splintering the veneer and internal<BR>
>laminations of the sides. The interior was filled with such an array<BR>
>of dirt, food and other items (including a full pack of pokeman<BR>
>cards) that it reminded me of the space under the seats of my '60<BR>
>rambler in high school.<BR>
><BR>
>Having repaired the cabinet, I have been pleasantly surprised that<BR>
>all of the keys and action appear to be in good working order:<BR>
>nothing broken, warped, jerry-rigged, etc. The more I look at it,<BR>
>the more I think its hard life was merely the last ten years.<BR>
><BR>
>Any information any of you all have about the workings of this piano<BR>
>I would be beholden to. The wippen is unlike any diagram I find in<BR>
>any book, so figuring out what to do is always an interpolation of<BR>
>something else.<BR>
><BR>
>Thanks all<BR>
><BR>
>Chris Thomas<BR>
><BR>
>________________________________<BR>
><BR>
>From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org on behalf of Andrew and Rebeca Anderson<BR>
>Sent: Sat 5/6/2006 10:50 PM<BR>
>To: Pianotech List<BR>
>Subject: RE: Question from a rank amatuer<BR>
><BR>
><BR>
>I tuned a '29 Brambach baby G Friday. Had a really sweet tone, no<BR>
>beats in the treble. All rear stringing unbraided. Weird whippens,<BR>
>the balancier stopped short of the jack and had a big bolstered<BR>
>leather pad, teflon anyone? Someone had re-whatevered it to about<BR>
>1/4"+/- dip and the action wasn't cycling. Luckily only the white<BR>
>keys and it was quick work to pull the card stock.<BR>
>The damper underlevers were all resting on the keys and with some<BR>
>twenty years weren't doing too good a job of damping too (felt<BR>
>compacted and not reaching the strings as well). The hammers had<BR>
>been nicely filed and the stroke was 2" +/- and let-off over<BR>
>1/4". Only had time to do so much after a huge pitch<BR>
>correction. At least with 3/8" dip the hammers no longer bobbled<BR>
>off of the jacks on soft playing.<BR>
><BR>
>The rim is quite thin. I did a large overpull tuning like I do on a<BR>
>D and than voiced the rear terminations and bearings, did another<BR>
>overpull tuning and then worked on the action and voiced the front<BR>
>terminations. I had to do yet another overpull tuning with the<BR>
>pitch 5-8 cents flat. Sure is gratifying when a dull sounding piano<BR>
>comes alive like that and becomes playable.<BR>
><BR>
>Now to get back there and re-time the dampers. With timing that<BR>
>early it felt rather heavy.<BR>
><BR>
>Andrew Anderson<BR>
><BR>
>At 09:03 PM 5/6/2006, you wrote:<BR>
><BR>
><BR>
> This would be one of the original Brambach pianos. Mark<BR>
> Campbell did not take over the company until 1912. Even then the<BR>
> transformation from the original Brambach and the later, much more<BR>
> mass-produced pianos did not take place immediately. This might be<BR>
> quite a nice piano. Given that it is now some 94 years old and its<BR>
> original builders only expected it to last something on the order<BR>
> of 20 to 25 years.<BR>
><BR>
> Del<BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
>________________________________<BR>
><BR>
> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [<BR>
> <A HREF="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A> <<A HREF="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A>><BR>
> ] On Behalf Of Joseph Garrett<BR>
><BR>
> Sent: May 06, 2006 6:44 PM<BR>
><BR>
> To: pianotech<BR>
><BR>
> Subject: Re: Question from a rank amatuer<BR>
><BR>
><BR>
> ".... has been restoring a 1910 Brambach piano."<BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
> Is this a Grand or an Upright??? Need to<BR>
> know! If it's a grand, there are some anomolies with the<BR>
> Brambach, that I can answer, as I own one, that is a<BR>
> "loner piano", that MUST be up to snuff. Keeping it<BR>
> that way does present challenges, even for me.<G><BR>
><BR>
> Keep in mind that Brambach pianos,<BR>
> in general, were inexpensive pianos, made to "fly out the<BR>
> door"!<G> Some of the engineering and materials<BR>
> were truly suspect, IMO. They can be decent, however.<BR>
><BR>
> Regards,<BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
><BR>
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T. (Oregon)<BR>
><BR>
> Captain, Tool Police<BR>
><BR>
> Squares R I<BR>
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