<HEAD> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2873" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <DIV>Avery-</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I'm beginning to think this could be wierd. How could it break down in the plate, within the length of the tapped, threaded hole?  How did the top part come out?  Did it rip out part of the threads?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I replaced the agraffes on a 1970's D where holes had not been tapped deep enough to take the agraffe shank. They had been forced in, smashing the threads to fit.  And this required tapping the holes to proper depth before putting in new agraffes.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>If you don't have taps for agraffe holes, maybe you could borrow some and bring them along.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Ed Sutton </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid">-----Original Message----- From: Avery <AVERY1@HOUSTON.RR.COM> Sent: May 19, 2006 4:12 PM To: ilvey@sbcglobal.net, Pianotech List <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG> Subject: RE: Broken Agraffe <ZZZHTML><ZZZBODY>David, I guess I'll find out this weekend! :-) Avery At 11:35 AM 5/19/2006, you wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite">If anything it should be easier to remove...less surface area/friction...all you will need is the fish-tail tool...believe me David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, California <HR> Original message From: Avery To: "Pianotech List" Received: 5/19/2006 3:23:06 AM Subject: RE: Broken Agraffe Hi Isaac, Thanks. Not panicking, though. Yet. :-)  I just wondered about any differences in removal when the remainder of the stub is down inside the plate. I'm aware of the methods you mention except for the plugs from Bob. Thanks for that information. It's an out of town store and I won't be able to go until Sunday or Monday. There's also a bunch of new grands to prep, so it'll be a worthwhile trip. Regards, Avery At 01:43 AM 5/19/2006, you wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite">Hi,Avery! Please,dont panic!!!!! Should be simple..If you can set the Temperament-you should be able to remove the brocken agraffe.Please,check the archives for more info. First attempt should be pulling it out with modified screwdriver grinded in shape of V or Fishtale.It should grab it in 2 points.Remember,while tapping turn the screwdriver COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.That method works in 94,87% times. #2;Try LEFT-HAND drill bit,it drills counter-clockwise,prevents further jamming of the brocken part and ,usually,brocken part starts to come out after drill penetrates it at about 1/8 dip. In extreme cases,when hole threads are damaged.you will have to use customized plugs.Bob Marinelli at Piano-Tech has them in stock. Hope it helps.If any problemas-catch me on my cell manyana  at 818-599-9839 and I will try to help you.Best of Luck Isaac   <HR> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [ <A href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" eudora="autourl">mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A>] On Behalf Of Avery Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:40 PM To: Pianotech List Subject: Broken Agraffe   <PRE>List, </PRE> <PRE> </PRE> <PRE>A dealer I do some work for just called me and said they had a broken</PRE> <PRE>agraffe on a Steinway </PRE> <PRE>M from the 1940's. I have information about the usual ways to remove a</PRE> <PRE>broken agraffe when </PRE> <PRE>it's broken flush with the plate. </PRE> <PRE> </PRE> <PRE>My question is will the same method(s) work when it's broken down inside</PRE> <PRE>the hole? Any </PRE> <PRE>suggestions, cautions, etc.? In my 32 yrs. of doing this work, I've only</PRE> <PRE>had to replace one! </PRE> <PRE> </PRE> <PRE>Thanks. </PRE> <PRE> </PRE> <PRE>Avery Todd</PRE> <PRE>University of Houston</PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></ZZZBODY></ZZZHTML></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY>