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<title>Light fixtures</title>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Mike:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>For years I had thought the same thing about 1 piece keytops. However
Kawai – for several years – made some pianos with real ivory that
was one piece. They were VERY thin! I had some keys in the hot car once and
one cracked. I had to send it to Rochester Piano Key and they were able to
replace it with another 1-piece ivory that they had. They’re rare, but
1-piece ivory does exist. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>dave<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'>David M. Porritt</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
10.0pt'><a href="mailto:dporritt@smu.edu">dporritt@smu.edu</a></span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font size=2
face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>
pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <b><span
style='font-weight:bold'>On Behalf Of </span></b>Mike Kurta<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Saturday, May 20, 2006 3:41
PM<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> Pianotech List<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Re: PVC-E glue and
Keytops</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma'> Hi Ric:</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma'> If they're one piece keytops you're
removing, they ain't ivory. Without exception, ivory key covering is in
two pieces, a long "tongue" and the top itself. You can make
sure by reflecting light off the surface and you should see growth rings much
like a tree. Plastic will have none. The border guards use a heated
needle pushed against the keytop. Plastic will melt and the needle will
go in, where ivory resists any such attempt.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma'> Anyway, the Spurlock method using a
router refers to trimming the top of the keystick after the material has been
removed. Best ways to remove the old tops are 1. carefully prying up
the old keytop with a utility knife or 2. loosening the adhesive first, using a
heat gun or 3. an electric iron with a damp cloth between the iron the the
tops, then pry off.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma'> Mike Kurta </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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