<HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2873" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none" bgColor=#ffffff><BR>I've seen a number of one piece ivories.  Yamaha comes to mind...not common though...definitely a pain to try to duplicate.<BR><BR>David Ilvedson, RPT<BR>Pacifica, California<BR><BR><BR><BR> <DIV style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 3px solid; PADDING-TOP: 5px"> <HR> Original message<BR>From: "Mike Kurta" <MKURTA@ADELPHIA.NET><BR>To: "Pianotech List" <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG><BR>Received: 5/20/2006 1:40:49 PM<BR>Subject: Re: PVC-E glue and Keytops<BR><BR> <DIV align=left><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>    Hi Ric:</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>    If they're one piece keytops you're removing, they ain't ivory.  Without exception, ivory key covering is in two pieces, a long "tongue" and the top itself.  You can make sure by reflecting light off the surface and you should see growth rings much like a tree.  Plastic will have none.  The border guards use a heated needle pushed against the keytop.  Plastic will melt and the needle will go in, where ivory resists any such attempt.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>    Anyway, the Spurlock method using a router refers to trimming the top of the keystick after the material has been removed.  Best ways to remove the old tops are 1. carefully prying up the old keytop with a utility knife or 2. loosening the adhesive first, using a heat gun or 3. an electric iron with a damp cloth between the iron the the tops, then pry off.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>    Mike Kurta  </FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>