<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:v = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1543" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE>  </STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY lang=EN-US id=role_body bottomMargin=7 vLink=purple link=blue bgColor=white leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7> <DIV>Yes, you  are correct,way too mush bother.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Joe Goss RPT Mother Goose Tools <A href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A> <A href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">From: <A title=pianoboutique@comcast.net href="mailto:pianoboutique@comcast.net">William Benjamin</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">To: <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">'Pianotech List'</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:56 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">Subject: RE: - All the Action Geometry Buffs</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV class=Section1> If you put in a thin wafer, wouldn’t one have to replace the fronts or something so it wouldn’t show?<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Just a thought,<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> William<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <DIV> PIANO BOUTIQUE<o:p></o:p> William Benjamin<o:p></o:p> Piano Tuner Extraordinaire<o:p></o:p> <A href="http://www.pianoboutique.biz">www.pianoboutique.biz</A><o:p></o:p> The tuner alone,<o:p></o:p> preserves the tone.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> <DIV class=MsoNormal style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center> <HR tabIndex=-1 align=center width="100%" SIZE=2> </DIV> From: <A href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Joe And Penny Goss Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 11:09 AM To: Pianotech List Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs<o:p></o:p></DIV> <o:p> </o:p> <DIV> Hi Stephane,<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Yup same here.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> One could remove the plastic tops and add a thin wafer of wood to the stick.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Unless it were my piano too much work, and then even if it were my piano,---<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> The sharps left alone and the naturals raised, will result in the natural being slightly higher at rest and not in a level plane with the sharps. Not very noticable, but I wonder if it would feel different to the player.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Joe Goss RPT Mother Goose Tools <A href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A> <A href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A><o:p></o:p></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; MARGIN: 5pt 0in 5pt 3.75pt; BORDER-LEFT: black 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"> <DIV> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV style="font-color: black"> From: <A title=collin.s@skynet.be href="mailto:collin.s@skynet.be">Stéphane Collin</A> <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> To: <A title=deanmay@pianorebuilders.com href="mailto:deanmay@pianorebuilders.com">deanmay@pianorebuilders.com</A> ; <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 8:14 AM<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> <o:p> </o:p></DIV> <DIV> Hello Dean.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> In my world, plastic melts under the heat resulting from the friction that sawing involves, and becomes a mess.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Best regards.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Stéphane Collin.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; MARGIN: 5pt 0in 5pt 3.75pt; BORDER-LEFT: black 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"> <DIV> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV style="font-color: black"> From: <A title=deanmay@pianorebuilders.com href="mailto:deanmay@pianorebuilders.com">Dean May</A> <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> To: <A title=Byeway222@aol.com href="mailto:Byeway222@aol.com">Byeway222@aol.com</A> ; <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">'Pianotech List'</A> <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 4:00 PM<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Subject: RE: - All the Action Geometry Buffs<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> <o:p> </o:p></DIV> I just had an idea. Why remove the entire top? If they are securely glued, perhaps you could remove only the thickness of your ivory from the plastic. This would leave the final height alone (or very close) and would provide a nice white base for your ivory. <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> One method I have of removing keytops is sawing them on the table saw. I set the fence so that it cuts off the thickness of the new top. This of course removes the desired amount of wood at the same time. One could just as easily set the fence so that it only cuts the thickness of your ivory. In your case this would not remove all of the plastic. I suspect you would have to use a pretty fine tooth blade to keep from chipping out the plastic. <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> You could also use a router table set up with a jig that securely holds the key upside down using a spiral bit. <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> <DIV> Dean<o:p></o:p> Dean May             cell 812.239.3359<o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272<o:p></o:p> Terre Haute IN  47802<o:p></o:p></DIV>  <o:p></o:p> -----Original Message----- From: Byeway222@aol.com [mailto:Byeway222@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:06 AM To: deanmay@pianorebuilders.com Subject: Re: - All the Action Geometry Buffs<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> <DIV> Thanks for the quick replies to my posting. This piano is only 12 years old and has the factory original keytops, so no material has been taken from the key wood.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Points raised so far are very interesting. Raising the naturals, for some reason, was not my immediate thought.  Yes, what about the ivory widths etc.  I still have to to check out fine details like this when I see the piano again.  It is about 120 miles away at present, but I am trying to get all my possibilities sorted before I take delivery in 3 weeks. I need to say, that this is a piano I have bought for myself and that is why I feel more indulgent about it than I would normally!<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Ed Sutton asks what experience I have with ivory tops.  I have really only done recovering/matching middle sections of old keyboards and had some success with bleaching a couple of whole sets using the peroxide and black flourescent light method.  If the ivory width works out (length of head is ok) I will certainly welcome advice on preparation and adheisive for this job.  So please keep the advice flowing.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> ric<o:p></o:p></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>