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<DIV> Hi David</DIV>
<DIV> I can see how this dial gauge will give you a very close reading on
a new fully crowned board. The problem I experience
with this type of gauge or the Lowell gauge is that more often than not on
old boards the crown has sunk some or a lot & the bevel on the bridge top
comes into play. Meaning that the rear bridge pins pull the string down
below the actual true rear string angle. (This may show more bearing than
is actually there). The rear string length in these
cases runs up hill to the string rest reducing the overall bearing angle.
So the closer the placement of the rear foot of either gauge to the bridge
the more bearing reading discrepancies you will have. See what I'm getting
at? </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> With he wooden gauges I posted about last week it is also critical
that the speaking length foot be butted up against the front bridge pins when it
rocks or big false readings will occur as well. See what
I'm mean?</DIV>
<DIV> When its' all said & done it seems there are least 3
types of usage for both gauges. </DIV>
<DIV> 1. Assessing any bearing in an old board & using the information
to set it up while stringing 2. A quick reference in advising
clients as to the condition of there piano or one that is being considered for
purchase.</DIV>
<DIV> 3. Confirming your bearing in a newly bellied & strung
piano.</DIV>
<DIV> Sheldon Smith & I often mused about that in reality
that the strings need to be off an old board to really get an
accurate & truthful idea of crown & bearing as they are so usually
minimal.</DIV>
<DIV> Dale</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>This is
the method I prefer for a quick check of down bearing. It's
a<BR>modified dial gauge and the three feet are 1 inch apart. When set
on a<BR>level surface the needle points straight down to 6:00. Each
increment on<BR>the gauge is .001". So when set over the bridge with the
center foot<BR>centered on the bridge and the outer feet on the front and back
scale, it<BR>gives a very quick reading of the total bearing (sine(1o) =
.018. The photo<BR>shows about 1 degree of residual bearing.
<BR><BR>Of course, it's relatively useless for setting up bearing on an
unstrung<BR>board but so is any other gauge. My latest foray is to use
my rib scale<BR>spreadsheet for calculating the amount of total deflection
under load and<BR>predetermine the bridge height based on calculations (I just
hate cutting<BR>those stupid little slots and pulling strings around). I
still use a string<BR>and a square to determine whether the bridge top is
square and canted<BR>properly front to back when I do the dry fitting.
My final adjustments come<BR>from using an adjustable plate perimeter mounting
system. <BR><BR>David
Love<BR>davidlovepianos@comcast.net<BR>www.davidlovepianos.com<BR>
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 face="Book Antiqua" size=2 FAMILY="SERIF" PTSIZE="10"><I>Dale
Erwin--Piano Restorations<BR>Modesto, Ca.<BR>Shop 209-577-8397<BR>cell
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