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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></font></b><font size=2
face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'> Digital calipers</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>My calipers are the dial type and seem to be more accurate
than plus or minus 5 thousandths providing they are properly zeroed first. <br>
<br>
That said, I still make a double check with a micrometer when dealing with wire
or pin sizes, just to be sure. <br>
<br>
Another tool I find useful is a digital micrometer. Mine is a cheapo
Harbor Freight special that was around $20 on sale a year or so ago. The
digital readout is not electronic, but mechanical, similar to a car odometer.
I'm usually wary of cheap tools, but this one has been fool-proof so far.
I sure makes for easy readability. <br>
<br>
Loren Hedahl<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>It is important to develop a “feel”
for your micrometers and calipers when closing them against your specimen and
closing them. Without this important control, you will not get
consistent, dependable measurements. BTW, these instruments must be
stored in their closed position to keep them clean and corrosion free.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Paul C<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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