<html xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st2="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas:contacts" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PersonName"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas:contacts" name="Sn"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas:contacts" name="GivenName"/>  <style>  </style> </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> Hi,<o:p></o:p> I will dive in with a couple of comments on Lakeone (<st1:Sn w:st="on">Webb</st1:Sn>’s) Wood Rebuilder.<o:p></o:p> First, the catalyst is in the powder, and I find people often assume it is the resin, which makes a difference in figuring out how it behaves.<o:p></o:p> The amount needed is not precise and can (and should) be varied to suit the current use.  The more powder used, the thicker the batch.  This also affects set-up time.  When you are planning a repair, if you are not familiar with the product, it’s best to experiment ahead of time to learn how it will set up at different mixtures so you can plan working time, how much to mix at one time, etc.  You want to find a mix that will be easy to work for the purpose.  For example, filling a small hole, and building a corner, have very different requirements.  Pinblock repair is somewhere in between.<o:p></o:p> Also, if you are shaping a piece, you want to work it as it sets up as it gets so hard.<o:p></o:p> Yes, it is polyester, you’re right <st1:GivenName w:st="on">Terry</st1:GivenName>.  Smells just like Konig.<o:p></o:p> Once it is cured, the thin mixture will be just as hard for practical purposes as the thick, as long as you use enough power to get he catalyst in.<o:p></o:p> It does need to set up overnight for pinblock repair, then ream/drill as <st2:PersonName w:st="on"><st1:GivenName w:st="on">Ed</st1:GivenName> <st1:Sn w:st="on">Sutton</st1:Sn></st2:PersonName> as written.  Do not fill the hole, or you will have a big job ahead of you.  Just swab it in with a hammer shank, at a consistency that allows it to fill all the cracks and laminate separations.<o:p></o:p> My experience with it in pinblocks is primarily in old uprights where the money is not there to replace the block, but it is being restrung.  Wood Rebuilder gives back the fresh wood fiber feeling in tuning, no mushiness.  We tried it once and I was so pleased with the tuning results that we now make this a regular part of those jobs.<o:p></o:p> Plugs: while I’m at it I might as well cover this also.  We have both 3/8” and ½” plugs, in maple and Delignit.  They are especially nice as an alternative to replacing grand pinblocks, for example, that are integrated into the rim, as well as for a few overly loose pins.  We started cutting them when we could not get them, and the Vortex made it possible to cut them without going through plug cutters at a rate that made it not economically feasible.<o:p></o:p> With high regards, and hoping this is helpful,<o:p></o:p> <st1:GivenName w:st="on">Ruth</st1:GivenName><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <st2:PersonName w:st="on"><st1:GivenName w:st="on">Ruth</st1:GivenName> <st1:Sn w:st="on">Phillips</st1:Sn></st2:PersonName><o:p></o:p> <a href="mailto:info@alliedpiano.com">info@alliedpiano.com</a><o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> </div> </body> </html>