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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>It smells as though it is a polyester resin base
material. It is mixed with a hardener. I believe the recommended technique is to
swab the hole (not the pin) and let cure. Materials that cure with a
hardener usually are best to leave for an overnight cure at a minimum (although
some of course are specifically designed for a very quick cure). And, although
an overnight cure will find the bonding material very hard, often, like in the
case of epoxy, it will continue to increase in strength for a period of several
days.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>With this stuff, I would recommend a minimum of an
overnight cure - a couple days would be better - you want that material to be as
settled as you reasonably can have it. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>However, I also believe this material is designed
to make a loose 2/0 hole into a snug 2/0 hole. Going from a bottomless 6/0 hole
(or larger), with potential unseen damage associated with it, this wood
rebuilder might not be the right stuff for this particular situation.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Personally, if removing the plate is
out of the question, the following is my best recommendation for plugging -
and I would estimate with 98+% certainty it will work (unless the block is
termite eaten or rotton or similar):</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Drill a 3/8" hole through the plate and pinblock
from above (or better yet, one bit size larger - you want a loose fitting
plug). Clean out the hole from below - remove any loose material, etc. Obtain a
3/8" diameter pinblock plug (make you own or buy one/bag from Webb Philips) of
suitable length. Sand the sides of the plug with very coarse sandpaper. Wet the
hole and the plug with unthickened West System resin/hardener (you can use their
#205 fast hardener - although I would still allow for an overnight cure). If the
unthickened epoxy seems to soak into the wood well, keep applying until it does
not soak in any more. Mix some West System 404 High-Density filler
into the resin for a peanut-butter consistency. Put a piece of plastic on
the bottom side of the pinblock, a block of flat wood under that, and block
that piece of wood firmly against the pinblock bottom (a pinblock
support jack would be great). Goop a thin layer of thickened epoxy on
the plug (work in a little so that you are sure there is complete
contact) and enough into the hole (push it into the sides of the hole) so
that you will have squeeze-out. Push in plug. Clean up squeeze-out (acetone is
the clean-up solvent). (You may want to inspect the bottom of the block to make
sure you don't have a bunch of squeeze-out where you don't want it - will depend
on how well the plastic/wood mates with the pinblock bottom.) Let cure overnight
(at least). Drill for new 2/0 tuning pin, etc.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hope this helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi, Terry, and Will. I tried it today, and
I wasn't satisfied with the results. I tried to mix it runny, put some
in the hole, put in the pin, let dry. I must have not let it dry enough,
because the stuff sticks to the pin, and when you screw it out, some of the
stuff comes out with the pin. I guess the way to do it, would be to fill
the hole, let it dry, and re-drill? I was hoping to avoid that, but hey,
if it works????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Clark A.
Sprague</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>