<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2912" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV>Sounds to me like a Lindener. Run away. No spares available since 1978.</DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:006e01c6b01d$b86c4000$0100007f@Aspire" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV>AF</DIV> <DIV>----- Original Message ----- <DIV>From: "Mark Ultsch" <<A href="mailto:multsch@jvlnet.com">multsch@jvlnet.com</A>></DIV> <DIV>To: "pianotech" <<A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>></DIV> <DIV>Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 4:56 PM</DIV> <DIV>Subject: should I repair, replace, retreat,or recommend a recking ball on Thomas vertical?</DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV>> hi folks, > > I've run across an "interesting" non-standard piano with an > uninteresting problem. > > It is a Thomas model PT vertical.  Serial no. 041384.  The nameplate > lists the manufacturer as Thomas Organ of Sepulveda California. > Pierce atlas lists only Thomas Piano (not Thomas Organ) as being from > Sepulveda.  So, how old is this, anyway? > > The theory of operation is standard, but the only action components > that look standard are the damper felts, hammers and shanks.  It > certainly isn't a high-grade piano, but is intriguing from an > mechanical design standpoint. > > The plate is a weldment and the keybed (also a weldment) is attached > to it with machine screws and locator pins.  The action is removed > extremely easily by flipping two spring steel clips on the top of two > action brackets.  Components are either plastic or stamped steel.  For > instance, the spoons are an integral part of the wippen formed from > sheet stock.  Backchecks are stampings with  buckskin glued to them. > Adjustments (including key height and dip) are made with plastic jack > screws.  Wippen, hammer and damper flanges are insert injected plastic > pieces with (what appears to be) spring steel inside.  They fit into > approx 1/2" channel rails like mini plastic clothes pins with the > springs reversed.  I can't find any screws holding these in place, > either. > > The problem is the damper flanges have a small protruding ear that > retains the damper (torsion) spring end.  The spring torsion places > tension on the ear and many of these ears in the bass flanges are > broken off, leaving the dampers to freely wander in space somewhere > between the strings and the damper stop rail. > > Questions:  Are these flanges of the soon-to-be-powder plastic type > like old plastic flanges or elbows?  Are new flanges available and, if > so, will standard center pins work?  Or, I'm wondering if I can get a > dab of epoxy to serve as a prosthetic ear on the existing broken > flanges to hold the spring end (I'll try gluing a broken piece but I > doubt it, though).  Is it worth it to replace or repair? > > Disclaimer:  Please correct me if some of my observations may be off a > bit:  It's bifocal time. > > Thanks for your comments and suggestions. > > Mark Ultsch, RPT > Madison Chapter > > ></BODY></HTML>