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--></style><title>Re: Installing new key end
felts</title></head><body>
<div><font color="#000088">At 3:00 pm -0400 5/8/06, Mark Dierauf
wrote:</font></div>
<div><font color="#000088"><br></font></div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font color="#000088">...I apply the glue
only to the felt, not to the keysticks. I</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font color="#000088">use lengths of thin
wood strips on top of the felt to apply even<br>
pressure with two or three large spring clamps, and clamp each
section</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font color="#000088">down to the edge of
my work bench...</font><br>
<font color="#000088"></font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font color="#000088">...then slice the
keys apart using a long blade in a large X-acto
handle</font></blockquote>
<div><font color="#000088"><br></font></div>
<div><font color="#000088">At 9:11 pm -0400 5/8/06, Mark Dierauf
wrote:</font><br>
<font color="#000088"></font></div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font color="#000088">Before I started
using the longer blade (I used to use a single edged razor blade) and
cutting from the top down I sometimes had slight problems because the
sides of the felts weren't always parallel with the key sides. They
sometimes therefore ended up a bit wider or narrower at the
top...</font></blockquote>
<div><font color="#000088"><br>
<br>
</font></div>
<div><font color="#000088">I have some suggestions to make. First, the
glue must be hot and of the consistency of warm syrup, and it should
be applied quickly to the key tails, say a dozen at a time, all nicely
aligned and held tight together. I would never apply glue to an
absorbent material like felt, but always to the wood, and I've always
thought this was common workshop practice. Immediately the key
ends have been brushed with the glue, put on the felt strip and press
it down with the fingers so that the glue gets a good hold on the
under-side of the felt. No clamping is necessary but it's
important to leave the keys undisturbed until the glue is set
hard.</font></div>
<div><font color="#000088"><br></font></div>
<div><font color="#000088">For this sort of work I never use little
disposable blades but have a variety of proper knives that I keep
razor sharp using a belgian stone followed by a razor strop.
Illustrated below is a knife that would be ideal for this job.
This is made from an old cabinet scraper set in a beech handle, which
happens to be the centre of a copper reel but could be anything.
The scraper is about 6" x 3" and the angle of the blade is
very acute. The handle serves also to preserve the angle of the
blade while sharpening on the stone.</font></div>
<div><font color="#000088"><br></font></div>
<div><font color="#000088">With such a knife you'd have to be very
careless to get anything but a perfectly vertical cut. Please
let me know off list if you can't see the inserted
pictures.</font></div>
<div><font color="#000088"><br></font></div>
<div><font color="#000088">JD</font></div>
<div><font color="#000088"><br></font></div>
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