<!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=ProgId content=Word.Document> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <meta name=Originator content="Microsoft Word 10"> <link rel=File-List href="cid:filelist.xml@01C6B935.28E35470"> <link rel=Edit-Time-Data href="cid:editdata.mso@01C6B935.28E35470">  <title>Re: Installing new key end felts</title>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple style='tab-interval:.5in'> <div class=Section1> Wow – that IS a nice cutting blade, and I can see where it would be even easier (and probably more comfortable) than the one I use. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> As for applying glue to the wood instead of the felt, I have always done it this way, and for two reasons: First, I am able to load the felt with enough glue to be sure that I’m getting good adhesion (I’ve never had a glue failure using this system), and second, I have no problems with gluing keys together! There are some applications where I might apply to the wood, but for thicker materials (key end, back rail cloth, etc.) I prefer it this way.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Thanks again for the pics, <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> - Mark Dierauf<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> -----Original Message----- From: John Delacour [mailto:JD@Pianomaker.co.uk] Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 5:51 AM To: Pianotech List Subject: Re: Installing new key end felts <o:p> </o:p> <div> At 3:00 pm -0400 5/8/06, Mark Dierauf wrote:<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt' type=cite cite> ...I apply the glue only to the felt, not to the keysticks. I<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt' type=cite cite> use lengths of thin wood strips on top of the felt to apply even pressure with two or three large spring clamps, and clamp each section<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt' type=cite cite> down to the edge of my work bench...<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt' type=cite cite> ...then slice the keys apart using a long blade in a large X-acto handle<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> At 9:11 pm -0400 5/8/06, Mark Dierauf wrote:<o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt' type=cite cite> Before I started using the longer blade (I used to use a single edged razor blade) and cutting from the top down I sometimes had slight problems because the sides of the felts weren't always parallel with the key sides. They sometimes therefore ended up a bit wider or narrower at the top...<o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> I have some suggestions to make. First, the glue must be hot and of the consistency of warm syrup, and it should be applied quickly to the key tails, say a dozen at a time, all nicely aligned and held tight together.  I would never apply glue to an absorbent material like felt, but always to the wood, and I've always thought this was common workshop practice.  Immediately the key ends have been brushed with the glue, put on the felt strip and press it down with the fingers so that the glue gets a good hold on the under-side of the felt.  No clamping is necessary but it's important to leave the keys undisturbed until the glue is set hard.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> For this sort of work I never use little disposable blades but have a variety of proper knives that I keep razor sharp using a belgian stone followed by a razor strop.  Illustrated below is a knife that would be ideal for this job.  This is made from an old cabinet scraper set in a beech handle, which happens to be the centre of a copper reel but could be anything.  The scraper is about 6" x 3" and the angle of the blade is very acute.  The handle serves also to preserve the angle of the blade while sharpening on the stone.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> With such a knife you'd have to be very careless to get anything but a perfectly vertical cut.  Please let me know off list if you can't see the inserted pictures.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> JD<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <img width=32 height=32 id="_x0000_i1025" src="cid:p06240537c0fb59649aef@%5b10.0.0.1%5d.1.0"><o:p></o:p>  <img width=32 height=32 id="_x0000_i1026" src="cid:p06240537c0fb59649aef@%5b10.0.0.1%5d.1.1"><o:p></o:p> <img width=32 height=32 id="_x0000_i1027" src="cid:p06240537c0fb59649aef@%5b10.0.0.1%5d.1.2"><o:p></o:p> </div> </body> </html>