<HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=windows-1251"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <P> <DIV>Clark asked: "<FONT size=+0>HI, ALL! Don't I remember, awhile back, a comment someone made about soaking their tuning pin bushings before installation, to soften them up a little? Joe Garrett, maybe? I couldn't find it in the archives."</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0> </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>Clark,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=+0>Yup, it was me.<G> I soak them in a solution of Synthetic Reducer and Pin Driving Fluid. About 100:1 mixture. Let them soak until they sink! Then extract 3 to 6, (a two unison couplet), and let them set on a paper towel until they start to show a bit of whiteness. That way the darned stuff won't be "squirting" all over the place! DAMHIK!<G> Swab the bushing and pin block with pin driving fluid and immediately start your stinging. I like to pull two out after I've driven the first string. That way I have a continuous supply that are properly "dried". This method will make the bushings remain tight around the pin forever! (or until the pinblock fails<G>) I've been using this method for thirty years and have seen what they look like after that period of time. No "gaposis" noted on my 30 year jobs! This method does take more time, but I believe it is worth the extra effort. Although, many say that the plate bushings do not support anything, I like to think that this method does help to eliviate a bit of the "flag-poling" that we so hate.<G> At least that's been my experience.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Regards,</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Joseph Garrett, R.P.T.</DIV> <DIV>Captain, Tool Police</DIV> <DIV>Squares R I</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <P></P></BODY></HTML>