<HTML xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:v = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1 = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"> <META content=Word.Document name=ProgId> <META content="Microsoft Word 10" name=Generator> <META content="Microsoft Word 10" name=Originator><LINK href="cid:filelist.xml@01C6DF43.80765780" rel=File-List><LINK href="cid:editdata.mso@01C6DF43.80765780" rel=Edit-Time-Data> <STYLE> v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} </STYLE> <o:SmartTagType name="City" namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagType><o:SmartTagType name="place" namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagType> <STYLE> st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } </STYLE> <STYLE>  </STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY lang=EN-US style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none; tab-interval: .5in" vLink=purple link=blue>Hey, that's good to know.   I'm going to try to take a few photos of this Steinway D.   You guys are not going to believe it...this Abatron probably is exactly what the doctor ordered... David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 <DIV style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 3px solid; PADDING-TOP: 5px"> <HR> Original message From: "Mark Dierauf" <PIANOTECH@NHPIANOS.COM> To: "Pianotech List" <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG> Received: 9/23/2006 4:07:23 PM Subject: RE: key lead hole filler <DIV class=Section1> Pianotek is now selling a product called Abatron WoodEpox that was demonstrated in <st1:City><st1:place>Rochester</st1:place></st1:City>. It can be kneaded and pressed into the tape-backed holes with a putty knife in such a way as to minimize or eliminate any post-cure sanding. Very slick.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> - Mark Dierauf<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> -----Original Message----- From: David Ilvedson [mailto:ilvey@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 11:37 AM To: ed440@mindspring.com; pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: key lead hole filler <o:p> </o:p> Now that's what I'm talking about....thanks Ed...<o:p></o:p> Who do you get your supplies through...? David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 <o:p></o:p> <DIV style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: black 2.25pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"> <DIV class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center> <HR align=center width="100%" SIZE=2> </DIV> Original message From: ed440@mindspring.com To: "Pianotech List" <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG>Received: 9/23/2006 4:56:05 AM Subject: Re: key lead hole filler<o:p></o:p> Sculpwood Epoxy Putty from System Three is a two part lightweight filled epoxy dough.It sands, drills and cuts nicely. Also takes black dye in the accidentals.<o:p></o:p> <DIV> Use SBS 46 skin cream (buy from epoxy supplier) and you can roll and stuff the epoxy into the holes with your hands.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Masking tape stretched over one side works well, does not stick to the epoxy and you don't need to clamp a piece of wood, just support with your finger or a piece of wood while you push the putty in from the other side and smooth the open side with a small putty knife.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> It took about an hour to fill an entire key set last week.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Ed Sutton<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; MARGIN-LEFT: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: blue 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"> -----Original Message----- From: Farrell <MFARREL2@TAMPABAY.RR.COM>Sent: Sep 23, 2006 5:58 AM To: Pianotech List <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG>Subject: Re: key lead hole filler <o:p></o:p><ZZZHTML><ZZZHEAD><ZZZMETA content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type"><ZZZMETA name="GENERATOR" content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963"></ZZZHEAD><ZZZBODY style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none" bgColor="#ffffff"> <DIV> Yup, pretty much exactly. I've taken a scrap of flat wood, and clamp it to a keystick with spring clamps. I place a piece of plastic between the key and wood so the scrap doesn't get bonded to the key. Then simply fill the hole from the other side and level with a stick of some sort for a sanding-free hole-filling job. Done with care, no sanding is necessary. However, overfilling slightly and sanding flat makes for a more visually attractive repair IMHO, but it's more work, and who the heck is going to see it? I figure if you are trying to make it look pretty, then just cut some spruce plugs and go that route - nothing looks better than a chisel-cut flush spruce plug.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> One other thought. Sometimes you will get a tiny bit of squeeze-through on the plastic/wood-scrap side of the keystick (if the scrap wasn't clamped perfectly to the keystick. I've thought that next time I do this task that I would tape over the one side of the keystick with wide masking tape and then clamp a scrap of wood to that side - just thinking that the masking tape sticking to the keystick would better prevent any epoxy from oozing out around the perimeter of the hole on that side - again, mostly a visual thing. Will the epoxy bond to the sticky masking tape? I guess a little experimentation is in order first!<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Terry Farrell<o:p></o:p></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; MARGIN: 5pt 0in 5pt 3.75pt; BORDER-LEFT: black 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"> <DIV> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV style="font-color: black">  <o:p></o:p></DIV> I've got a Sty D with a lot of holes in the keys (before my time)  I'd like to repair this as efficiently as possible.   So, Terry, could write what your careful application might be?   I would imagine:   one side of the key has scrap wood and tape?   other side levels out nicely...????? David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044<o:p></o:p> <DIV style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 4pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: black 2.25pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"> <DIV class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center> <HR align=center width="100%" SIZE=2> </DIV> Original message<o:p></o:p> I've done it both ways and whereas I sure do like the look of spruce plugs, epoxy is about a gazillion time faster.<o:p></o:p> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> I use West System epoxy resin and hardener and thicken it with their 410 MicrolightTM low-density filler. It cures to a tan color. This is a fairing filler and is extremely easy to sand - although careful application makes for almost no sanding needed.<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> Terry Farrell<o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV>  <o:p></o:p></DIV> <DIV> ----- Original Message -----  > Just wondering. Why don't you must put a wood plug in the holes? > > Avery > > At 02:36 PM 9/22/2006, you wrote: > >>List, >> >>I read about the Abatron putty but was wondering whether anyone in >>the trades sells something ready to go with color? >> >>David Ilvedson, RPT<o:p></o:p></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></ZZZBODY></ZZZHTML></DIV></BODY></HTML>