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<DIV>Sometimes direct from System Three, sometimes from the local Woodcraft Supply store.</DIV>
<DIV>The Sculpwood comes with plastic gloves, but I find them too clumsy for keywork. The cream protector does fine for me.</DIV>
<DIV>Ed S.<BR><BR><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid">-----Original Message----- <BR>From: David Ilvedson <ILVEY@SBCGLOBAL.NET><BR>Sent: Sep 23, 2006 11:36 AM <BR>To: ed440@mindspring.com, pianotech@ptg.org <BR>Subject: Re: key lead hole filler <BR><BR><ZZZHTML><ZZZHEAD><ZZZMETA content="text/html; charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type"><ZZZMETA content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963" name="GENERATOR"></ZZZHEAD><ZZZBODY style="BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: none">
<P>Now that's what I'm talking about....thanks Ed...</P>
<P>Who do you get your supplies through...?<BR><BR>David Ilvedson, RPT<BR>Pacifica, CA 94044<BR><BR><BR></P>
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Original message<BR>From: ed440@mindspring.com<BR>To: "Pianotech List" <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG><BR>Received: 9/23/2006 4:56:05 AM<BR>Subject: Re: key lead hole filler<BR><BR>
<DIV align=left>Sculpwood Epoxy Putty from System Three is a two part lightweight filled epoxy dough.It sands, drills and cuts nicely. Also takes black dye in the accidentals.</DIV>
<DIV>Use SBS 46 skin cream (buy from epoxy supplier) and you can roll and stuff the epoxy into the holes with your hands.</DIV>
<DIV>Masking tape stretched over one side works well, does not stick to the epoxy and you don't need to clamp a piece of wood, just support with your finger or a piece of wood while you push the putty in from the other side and smooth the open side with a small putty knife.</DIV>
<DIV>It took about an hour to fill an entire key set last week.</DIV>
<DIV>Ed Sutton</DIV>
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<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 0px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid">-----Original Message----- <BR>From: Farrell <MFARREL2@TAMPABAY.RR.COM><BR>Sent: Sep 23, 2006 5:58 AM <BR>To: Pianotech List <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG><BR>Subject: Re: key lead hole filler <BR><BR><ZZZHTML><ZZZHEAD><ZZZMETA content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type"><ZZZMETA content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963" name="GENERATOR">
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Yup, pretty much exactly. I've taken a scrap of flat wood, and clamp it to a keystick with spring clamps. I place a piece of plastic between the key and wood so the scrap doesn't get bonded to the key. Then simply fill the hole from the other side and level with a stick of some sort for a sanding-free hole-filling job. Done with care, no sanding is necessary. However, overfilling slightly and sanding flat makes for a more visually attractive repair IMHO, but it's more work, and who the heck is going to see it? I figure if you are trying to make it look pretty, then just cut some spruce plugs and go that route - nothing looks better than a chisel-cut flush spruce plug.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>One other thought. Sometimes you will get a tiny bit of squeeze-through on the plastic/wood-scrap side of the keystick (if the scrap wasn't clamped perfectly to the keystick. I've thought that next time I do this task that I would tape over the one side of the keystick with wide masking tape and then clamp a scrap of wood to that side - just thinking that the masking tape sticking to the keystick would better prevent any epoxy from oozing out around the perimeter of the hole on that side - again, mostly a visual thing. Will the epoxy bond to the sticky masking tape? I guess a little experimentation is in order first!</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"> </DIV>I've got a Sty D with a lot of holes in the keys (before my time) I'd like to repair this as efficiently as possible. So, Terry, could write what your careful application might be? I would imagine: one side of the key has scrap wood and tape? other side levels out nicely...?????<BR><BR>David Ilvedson, RPT<BR>Pacifica, CA 94044<BR><BR>
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<DIV align=left><FONT face=Arial size=2>I've done it both ways and whereas I sure do like the look of spruce plugs, epoxy is about a gazillion time faster.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I use West System epoxy resin and hardener and thicken it with their 410 MicrolightTM low-density filler. It cures to a tan color. This is a fairing filler and is extremely easy to sand - although careful application makes for almost no sanding needed.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- <BR>> Just wondering. Why don't you must put a wood plug in the holes?<BR>> <BR>> Avery<BR>> <BR>> At 02:36 PM 9/22/2006, you wrote:<BR>> <BR>>>List,<BR>>><BR>>>I read about the Abatron putty but was wondering whether anyone in <BR>>>the trades sells something ready to go with color?<BR>>><BR>>>David Ilvedson, RPT</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></ZZZBODY></ZZZHTML></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></ZZZBODY></ZZZHTML></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY>