<HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=windows-1251"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <P> <DIV>John said:</DIV> <DIV>"The main problem then, is that the hole is not large enough to allow free rotation, so you have to router a larger cavity. I have tried to figure out a better method, rather than a router. I tried a power file. I was thinking on a Roto-Zip or hole saw, but haven't tried them yet."</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I use a paring chisel or a curved gouge. Finishing up with a circular rasp in a drill. Less dust and it's fast. As for the casters, themselves, I prefer to use the double wheel Darnells w/cast sockets. Since most caster socket holes are under-sized, I enlarge with a 15/16" Spade bit, which gives a nice snug fit. (it is a bit "squirrely" to get started, so brace yourself.<G>) The added height is usually not a problem with most pianists. Of course that depends on the piano(s), as some were already a bit high on the pedals to begin with. It's a crap-shoot sometimes. Ya gots to think on your feet.<G> Oh, another consideration is that the piano need to be exactly vertical or, (better yet), slightly higher in the back than the front. This can be checked with a bubble level. It can be achieved with the ready-made cardboard washers. Makes for a safer piano and slightly lowers the pedals, as well.</DIV> <DIV>Regards,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Joseph Garrett, R.P.T.</DIV> <DIV>Captain, Tool Police</DIV> <DIV>Squares R I</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <P></P></BODY></HTML>