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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Roger,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Totally agree with your last statement. Cheepo is
not the way to go if replacing the casters, and the customer should pay for the
tools need to do the job as they will be seldom used by most techs there after.
JMO</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=roger.j@sasktel.net href="mailto:roger.j@sasktel.net">Roger Jolly</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, September 29, 2006 8:51
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Caster repair</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=3>At 11:46 PM 9/28/2006, you wrote:<BR></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite"><FONT face=arial
size=3><B>Thanks, Roger.<BR>I had wondered, if a 3" would do it, when I was
thinking of using a hole saw.<BR></B></FONT><FONT face=arial size=2>John M.
Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Hi
John,<BR>
The 3" works well in most cases, and gives a nice clean result. You may
have to take some extra material from the bottom of the hole to allow
for the extra height of the casters, to correct the pedal height. This
will give a clean flat surface to mount the new flange on virgin wood.<BR>In
some cases we have had to increase the depth of the shaft hole. I don't
like those cardboard shims as it raises the height of the piano, and leads to
pedal complaints. They also compress and the caster becomes
loose.<BR>When the shaft hole is too wide in Diameter, we drill them out in a
similar manner, and plug them with 1'1/2" dowel. Glue the dowel in
with 5min epoxy. Re drill to the correct size for a snug fit. If the supply
house plugs fit, you are ahead of the game, but glue them in. The shaft needs
to be snug <BR>Drill out and plug the old screw holes, Drill pilot holes
for new screws in a clean area of wood. A note on mounting screws. They need
to be wide enough that they fill the flange mounting holes.<BR> The end
result will be a good solid mounting that will stand up in School use.
Well! As good as anything stands up in a school situation.<BR>The advantage of
a Forsner bit over a hole saw. You end up with a clean flat base to
mount the flange.<BR>I know. Forsner bits are expensive. This is
one time a canny Scotsman needs to splurge. :-\ <BR>Charge a little extra and
do the job right.<BR><BR>Regards Roger<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>