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<DIV> <STRONG><EM>Hey Clark</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> What you describe I find myself
undoing routinely on jobs that come in for a board. The
statement is made that the action has been rebuilt but it doesn't play
well....it's heavy...fill in the blanks. A well meaning person simply
made a decision without any action protocol information & chose the original
knuckle placement parts, Installed too heavy a hammer, which compounded original
poor key leverages etc.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Whenever you find short dip & long blow the action
ration is high. In this case probably 6.5 or more. When initial tear
down is first contemplated, a quick regulation of one note will give you this
first clue as to action ratio problems. 5 minutes saves countless hours of
grief. AMHIK!</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> A 17 mm knuckle often solves much of this leverage
problem or gets it headed in the right direction, but also a capstan move
is also needed to get the leverage into the ballpark. </EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> I wonder if there is enough wood left in the keys to
salvage or if the rations are so whacked that a new key set is in order any
way.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Stanwood made simple for me is as
follows.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> I have a action ration finder which is simply a
small 3 inch long by 1/2 inch square block of maple that has a tapered 6 mm shoe
on the bottom & a 1/2 ich lead in the top to hold down the key. With three
level white keys & three level hammers I can set this gauge on the keys
& in 5 seconds measure the amount of hammer travel in mm , then divide
by six & I have an action ration number that is close enough to tell me
which way I need to go with the parts choice, capstan move & hammer
weight. A depth gauge placed at the top of the hammer which moved upward &
the bottom of the ruler in the gauge hit both hammer tops simultaneaously. ie
say 32 mm is a 5.33 action ration which is great. & 36mm would be 6 which is
going to have the problems you describe.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Hope this helps</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> I'll post a pic. later if you wish.......off to
church.............................seeyalaterbye</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Dale</EM></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi, All! I have been dealing with a S&S
B that I found with up to 9 leads in some of the low tenor keys. All the
parts had been replaced with Renner to get rid of the Teflon flanges, but it
was heavy, sluggish, and just a chore to play for long. I am not all
that familiar with the Stanwood protocols, but as time goes on, the concept
gets more and more attractive. What I found, was that I had to shorten
the dip, lengthen the blow, to get it less laborious to play. So, what I
suspect , is that the capstan placement is incorrect for the parts used, or
was incorrect from the start? They also had the damper timing late to
try to make it feel lighter, so late that the hammer almost hit the strings
before it lifted.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Ric, your comments on the more
creative combinations of blow, dip, etc hit a chord with me on this
beast.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> There were too many leads in
from the factory, and you could tell be looking that some more were added with
the new parts, as they did not look factory at all, so the problems just
got worse, evidently with the parts replacement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Clark A. Sprague,
RPT</FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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