<html> <body> Thanks, Ed. Just never heard of it. Avery At 07:52 PM 10/31/2006, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Cyano-epoxy aka Tech-Bond. -----Original Message----- >From: Avery <avery1@houston.rr.com> >Sent: Oct 31, 2006 4:00 PM >To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org> >Subject: Re: More general glue questions was Glue for cracked rib? > >I guess I'm showing my "ignorance" here but what is >CE stuff? Not CA? > >Avery > >At 11:25 AM 10/31/2006, you wrote: >>Because this rib will be put under stress again, and >>the split is NOT on an old glue joint, I'm intending >>to use the CE stuff that Coleman sells. I don't >>consider hide glue, hot or cold, of adequate strength >>for this application. >>      Thump >> >>P.S. Coleman said he "uses it all the time" for >>applications such as this. >> >>--- ed440@mindspring.com wrote: >> >> > Alan- >> > >> > Depends on just what you mean by "here." >> > >> > For a buzzing rib in a dying piano with no rebuild >> > value in a school struggling to recover from >> > Katrina, I would use whatever would work fast and >> > easy. (Probably CE, and I might press the rib up >> > with a wedge or stick to the floor or just my hand >> > for the minute it takes the glue to bond. >> > >> > For repair, rebuilding or restoration of a preWWII >> > instrument, working in my shop, I would probably use >> > cold hide glue.  (First I would test glue some scrap >> > wood over night to make sure my glue was still >> > good.)  A failed hide glue joint usually has glue >> > dust or flakes. You can't fully clean it without >> > disassembling the joint.  Cold hide glue is fairly >> > thin, easy to inject and will dissolve the glue >> > dust.  It gives you plenty clamping time and can be >> > reversed later with water and heat. >> > >> > To use Titebond you need to get the joint cleaned, >> > it is a bit thicker than cold hide glue and harder >> > to reverse, should that be desired, and you've got >> > to clamp faster. >> > >> > On a Kimball Classic with a soundboard coming loose >> > along the spine, I used Titebond and quickly clamped >> > with a strip of quarter round and drywall screws. >> > This job was done on site. >> > >> > On a rare 19th century piano I'd consider refering >> > the job to a conservator trained to deal with >> > historic instruments or at least getting >> > specialist's advice on what to do (or not do). >> > >> > I would not use the peanut butter stuff.  For gaps I >> > like polyfiber in epoxy. For cosmetic reconstruction >> > try Wood Rebuilder. >> > >> > Just my opinions. >> > >> > Ed Sutton >> > >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u@earthlink.net> >> > >Sent: Oct 30, 2006 3:42 PM >> > >To: pianotech@ptg.org >> > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for >> > cracked rib? >> > > >> > >----- This is a forwarded message >> > ---------------------------------------- >> > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u@earthlink.net> >> > >To: ed440@mindspring.com, pianotech@ptg.org >> > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:35:29 PM >> > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for >> > cracked rib? >> > > >> > > >> > >Are there reasons for not using yellow glue, here? >> > (Titebond, Carpenters, etc.) >> > > >> > >And while I'm asking questions out of ignorance: >> > When you need to fill a gap, what about using panel >> > adhesive--the stuff that looks like peanut butter? >> > > >> > >Alan Barnard >> > >Salem, MO >> > >Joshua 24:15 >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > >----- Original message >> > ---------------------------------------- >> > >From: ed440@mindspring.com >> > >To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org> >> > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:19:53 PM >> > >Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib? >> > > >> > > >> > >>Gordon- >> > > >> > >>When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean >> > "separated," not "split." >> > > >> > >>Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in >> > a situation like this. It will soften and >> > >>combine with any hide glue that is in the joint. >> > Hide glue is not gap-filling.  (I just >> > >>came from a great talk by Eugene Thorndahl, who >> > has spent 50 years as a hide glue >> > >>chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of >> > hide glue are an Internet myth. >> > >><<a href="http://www.bjorn.net> /" eudora="autourl"> www.bjorn.net> </a> He may be the only source of >> > genuine graded hide glues for >> > >>instrument and restoration work.) >> > > >> > >>For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka >> > Tech-Bond).  It has the shear and >> > >>shock resistance that CA sadly lacks, and sets a >> > bit slower.  Jim Coleman, Jr. and a >> > >>few other specialty distributors sell it. >> > > >> > >>In either case you may want to drill a hole for >> > access to the joint and inject the glue >> > >>right into the center of the problem. >> > > >> > >>Ed Sutton >> > >> > >> >> >> >> >>____________________________________________________________________________________ >>Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates >>(<a href="http://voice.yahoo.com/" eudora="autourl"> http://voice.yahoo.com</a>)</blockquote></body> </html>