<html> <body> I guess I'm showing my "ignorance" here but what is CE stuff? Not CA? Avery At 11:25 AM 10/31/2006, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Because this rib will be put under stress again, and the split is NOT on an old glue joint, I'm intending to use the CE stuff that Coleman sells. I don't consider hide glue, hot or cold, of adequate strength for this application.      Thump P.S. Coleman said he "uses it all the time" for applications such as this. --- ed440@mindspring.com wrote: > Alan- > > Depends on just what you mean by "here." > > For a buzzing rib in a dying piano with no rebuild > value in a school struggling to recover from > Katrina, I would use whatever would work fast and > easy. (Probably CE, and I might press the rib up > with a wedge or stick to the floor or just my hand > for the minute it takes the glue to bond. > > For repair, rebuilding or restoration of a preWWII > instrument, working in my shop, I would probably use > cold hide glue.  (First I would test glue some scrap > wood over night to make sure my glue was still > good.)  A failed hide glue joint usually has glue > dust or flakes. You can't fully clean it without > disassembling the joint.  Cold hide glue is fairly > thin, easy to inject and will dissolve the glue > dust.  It gives you plenty clamping time and can be > reversed later with water and heat.   > > To use Titebond you need to get the joint cleaned, > it is a bit thicker than cold hide glue and harder > to reverse, should that be desired, and you've got > to clamp faster. > > On a Kimball Classic with a soundboard coming loose > along the spine, I used Titebond and quickly clamped > with a strip of quarter round and drywall screws. > This job was done on site. > > On a rare 19th century piano I'd consider refering > the job to a conservator trained to deal with > historic instruments or at least getting > specialist's advice on what to do (or not do). > > I would not use the peanut butter stuff.  For gaps I > like polyfiber in epoxy. For cosmetic reconstruction > try Wood Rebuilder. > > Just my opinions. > > Ed Sutton > > > > -----Original Message----- > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u@earthlink.net> > >Sent: Oct 30, 2006 3:42 PM > >To: pianotech@ptg.org > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for > cracked rib? > > > >----- This is a forwarded message > ---------------------------------------- > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u@earthlink.net> > >To: ed440@mindspring.com, pianotech@ptg.org > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:35:29 PM > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for > cracked rib? > > > > > >Are there reasons for not using yellow glue, here? > (Titebond, Carpenters, etc.) > > > >And while I'm asking questions out of ignorance: > When you need to fill a gap, what about using panel > adhesive--the stuff that looks like peanut butter? > > > >Alan Barnard > >Salem, MO > >Joshua 24:15 > > > > > > > >----- Original message > ---------------------------------------- > >From: ed440@mindspring.com > >To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org> > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:19:53 PM > >Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib? > > > > > >>Gordon- > > > >>When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean > "separated," not "split." > > > >>Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in > a situation like this. It will soften and > >>combine with any hide glue that is in the joint. > Hide glue is not gap-filling.  (I just > >>came from a great talk by Eugene Thorndahl, who > has spent 50 years as a hide glue > >>chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of > hide glue are an Internet myth.  > >><<a href="http://www.bjorn.net> /" eudora="autourl"> www.bjorn.net> </a> He may be the only source of > genuine graded hide glues for > >>instrument and restoration work.) > > > >>For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka > Tech-Bond).  It has the shear and > >>shock resistance that CA sadly lacks, and sets a > bit slower.  Jim Coleman, Jr. and a > >>few other specialty distributors sell it. > > > >>In either case you may want to drill a hole for > access to the joint and inject the glue > >>right into the center of the problem. > > > >>Ed Sutton > >   ____________________________________________________________________________________ Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates (<a href="http://voice.yahoo.com/" eudora="autourl"> http://voice.yahoo.com</a>)</blockquote></body> </html>