<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <meta content="text/html;charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type"> </head> <body bgcolor="#ffffff" text="#000000"> I had this as well. Wasn't sure what glue to use either but went with a medium CA, applied with applicators from a hobby shop (4" plastic with brush or round applicator tip), and held the decal down briefly with the Spurlock soundboard tool as you were thinking. Still attached a year later. Here is the procedure I received from Samick at the time, but this requires removing strings.My cust wasn't interested in paying to have it done correctly. Repairing a peeling Samick soundboard decal<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> In some rare cases where Samick decals have begun blistering or lifting we recommend the following procedures for repair. Clean the soundboard of any dust or dirt. Thoroughly vacuum up as much dust as possible  <o:p></o:p> It is usually easier to remove strings around the sound board decal. As few as 3, usually 8 to 10 strings should be removed. Use caution, or remove dampers around the area. Carefully lower tension on the tenor strings enough to remove them from the hitch pins and pull them aside. Hold the strings out of the way with a piece of wire (copper preferred, if available) or pull out of the way with string without removing from hitch pins when possible.  <o:p></o:p> In low temperature conditions it may be necessary to warm the old decal. Using a hot hair dryer (not a heat gun) warm the decal. Slowly peel off the old decal while it is warm. Clean the area with naphtha (NOT lacquer thinner or acetone based cleaners or thinners), paint thinner might soften some nitrocellulose finishes; use caution.  <o:p></o:p> Soak the new decal in water until soft (about one minute). Wet the sound board around the decal position. Carefully slide the new decal into position. Blot dry and allow to dry thoroughly at least 2 hours (over-night preferred). After the decal is thoroughly dry carefully peel away the clear backing leaving the decal ink on the soundboard. Apply a clear coating of lacquer, allow to dry. Replace strings and tune.  <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> With a pressure sensitive decal:  <o:p></o:p> Carefully position the new decal in the same location as the old decal. Remove the backing and apply the decal from one edge avoiding bubbles. Press firmly all around.  <o:p></o:p> Reseal the new decal with a light coating of lacquer.  <o:p></o:p> Reinstall the strings aligning to the hammers. Reinstall the dampers if they were removed and regulate.  <o:p></o:p> Retune the piano.  <o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Phil Glenn, RPT Samick Technical Service Manager  <o:p></o:p> Pianoman wrote: <blockquote cite="mid001001c6fe7e$bc973b80$f488cecf@S1099818074" type="cite">I have a Samick client here with the soundboard decal curling at the edges also. James James Grebe Piano Tuning & Repair Member of Master Piano Technicians. Registered Piano Technician of the Piano Technicians Guild for over 30 years. "Member of the Year" in 1989 Creator of Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups, Piano Benches, Writing Instruments,Table Timepieces (314) 608-4137 1526 Raspberry Lane Arnold, MO 63010 Researcher of St. Louis Theatre History BECOME WHAT YOU BELIEVE! <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:pianoman@accessus.net">pianoman@accessus.net</a> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cy Shuster" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:cy@shusterpiano.com"><cy@shusterpiano.com></a> To: "Pianotech" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><pianotech@ptg.org></a> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 8:11 PM Subject: Wurlitzer C173 (Young Chang) - lifting logo <blockquote type="cite">Nice mahogany C173 Wurlitzer (5'9"), S/N 60,600, with a couple of puzzlements (I have no answers). -- Samick says it's not theirs. Any idea of the age? Pierce has no help. It has a white paper barcode label underneath. -- It's been in New Mexico for at least nine years. No humidity control, but no sign of problems, either, except... the soundboard logo is detached, most of the way around its outside edge, as much as an inch in. Flat, not curled up, and just angled up from the s/b. Was there no original varnish overcoat? How to attach it now? I'm thinking of adhesive that I spread around with pressure on the decal from my Spurlock cleaning tools. What kind? -- On the caster cups on thinnish carpet, it wobbles back and forth, fore and aft, with rapid use of the sustain pedal. The casters are angled 45 degrees in front, 90 degrees at the tail. -- E5 wouldn't repeat sometimes. It felt like the jack wasn't reset, but lifting the jack tail made no difference; it didn't move at all. Rep lever height is fine; rep spring tension brisk; jack is centered in the window. Knuckle was a little flat, but not much. I thought maybe the backcheck was grabbing on the way up, but with pressure on the hammer, the jack just cheated out from under the knuckle. I reset the jack starting position towards the piano's tail, a 1/16" or so, and that fixed the problem, but I'm not happy that it's out of line with all the rest when you lift the hammers. What else should I try? Thanks, --Cy-- <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.shusterpiano.com">www.shusterpiano.com</a> </blockquote> </blockquote> </body> </html>