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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>My regulating work bench top is planks of red oak
and hard maple (attached to the back of an old spinet). I simply epoxied the
entire surface and then sprayed a couple top coats of water-based lacquer on it.
The epoxy filled all the pores.</FONT></DIV>
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src="cid:003101c7141e$0e944180$0201a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Best functioning Betsy Ross spinet I've ever worked
on!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Every tool struck on it makes it's own unique
cord!</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- <BR>> If you
want to fill the pores, why not use a pore filler and be done with <BR>>
it? Then a couple three coats of poly. I wouldn't think, though, on
an old <BR>> door that you would really have much trouble with
splinters.<BR>> <BR>> Also, do you really think it is necessary to deal
with the porosity of the <BR>> oak? Do you think this kind of open pore
wood lends itself to splintering, <BR>> therefore, fill the pores, and build
up a thick coat to prevent that?<BR>> <BR>> I ask because I'm curious what
your thoughts are. I've not had this <BR>> experience with oak, but
haven't used it for a workbench, either.<BR>> <BR>> Best,<BR>> William
R. Monroe<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>> Joel,<BR>>><BR>>> With an
oak door I expect you've got some very open grain. For that, I
<BR>>> would use polyurethane, and begin with several coats of sealer,
thoroughly <BR>>> sanded, until the grain is filled and the surface is
smooth. Then a <BR>>> couple finish coats of gloss, which is harder
than either sealer or satin <BR>>> finish. Anything less, and you'll
be dealing with lots of splinters and <BR>>> surface
defects.<BR>>><BR>>> Mike </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>