<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3020" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV> <DIV>> I attended a North East Regional Seminar in 92 or 93 in New Hampshire where <BR>> a technician showed the class how to replace the pin field area without <BR>> having to replace the entire pin block. He routered out the pin area to the <BR>> thickness of the new stock (plus a little more for glue) and epoxied the new <BR>> piece in place, did some surface cleaning  and replaced the plate ready to <BR>> drill. His example was an old upright with plenty of plank to support the <BR>> new piece. I did not save the notes or the class hand-out (and I've never <BR>> tried this myself) but it seemed like a good way to repin without ripping <BR>> out the whole pin block out.<BR>> <BR>> David C.<BR>> Las Vegas, NV</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Indeed it can be a good method when the old block is still well-bonded to the piano frame. I did the procedure just as you describe to the 1912 M&H upright in the picture below. I wanted to preserve the original plate screw holes - so the replacement pieces are kinda squirrelly looking. But everything went well and tuning this piano is a dream.</FONT></DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:001b01c720c0$16078630$0301a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>