<HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=utf-8"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.5730.11" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"> <DIV>I've use his method on an 1873 Steinway UR E1 and it's quite handy. Make sure not to let the drill bit overheat! And it's for the entire block although the last laminate has to be steamed off the back posts. So measure first :-)</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 12/16/06 17:24:48 Central Standard Time, jpdraine@gmail.com writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"> <DIV> <STYLE type=text/css> .aolmailheader {font-size:8pt; color:black; font-family:Arial} a.aolmailheader:link {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:visited {color:magenta; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:active {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:hover {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} </STYLE> David, <BR>I think that was David Hagberg who gave that class way back when. More <BR>recently Andre Bolduc has developed a rather efficient method for <BR>removing the entire upright pinblock (duh or was it just the <BR>pinfield?), and sending it to him for duplication (with tuning pin <BR>holes drilled for you). Special tools and a videotape are, I believe, <BR>available from Pianotek (or direct from Andre). <BR>Patrick Draine <BR>still in the Northeast, although it's been almost as warm as the South recently <BR><BR>On 12/15/06, David Chadwick <chadwick61@cox.net> wrote: <BR>> Greetings, <BR>> I attended a North East Regional Seminar in 92 or 93 in New Hampshire where <BR>> a technician showed the class how to replace the pin field area without <BR>> having to replace the entire pin block. He routered out the pin area to the <BR>> thickness of the new stock (plus a little more for glue) and epoxied the new <BR>> piece in place, did some surface cleaning  and replaced the plate ready to <BR>> drill. His example was an old upright with plenty of plank to support the <BR>> new piece. I did not save the notes or the class hand-out (and I've never <BR>> tried this myself) but it seemed like a good way to repin without ripping <BR>> out the whole pin block out. <BR>> <BR>> David C. <BR>> Las Vegas, NV <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> ----- Original Message ----- <BR>> From: "Conrad Hoffsommer" <hoffsoco@luther.edu> <BR>> To: <tune4u@earthlink.net>; "Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org> <BR>> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 2:20 AM <BR>> Subject: Re: Major work on uprights ... was re: pin block drill press <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > Alan, <BR>> > <BR>> > At 23:41 12/14/2006, you wrote: <BR>> > <BR>> >>I'm curious about two topics: <BR>> >> <BR>> >>1. Under what conditions do you see umpty-ump (200+) plugs inserted and <BR>> >>drilled as a better fix than oversized pins? <BR>> > <B R>> > The first thing which come to my not-quite-awake, alleged mind is an <BR>> > obvious split area. Oversize pins are quite effective wedges for <BR>> > propagating splits. <BR>> > <BR>> > After that would be finding a range of replacement oversize pins already <BR>> > in place. (00-00000!) <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> >>2. How many old uprights do you see that are really worth this much time, <BR>> >>trouble, and money? <BR>> > <BR>> > Dern few. <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > Conrad Hoffsommer <BR>> > You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, <BR>> > then used against you. <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> > <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>