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<DIV>Dale said;</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Origina<STRONG><EM> By the way the New
Tokiwa wippens for Steinway are a spitting image of the Renner part provided
by the Steinway N.Y factory. I have a set on the shelf. They
are beautiful & I am installing this set soon in a Stwy D. I
have compared them side by side with the Renner parts & you cannot tell
the difference except the Tokiwa parts have a number conveinently located on
the repitition lever.</EM></STRONG>l Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Dale,</DIV>
<DIV>Ditto on the Tokiwa wippens. I have installed about 1/2 dozen sets and
have had great results.</DIV>
<DIV>Tom Servinsky</DIV>
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<DIV> <STRONG><EM> Hi Mark</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> I have installed many Renner parts but not as of
yet the Tokiwa kit however I plan to make it my next install choice. I
have looked closely at the parts & have samples. It's good to have more
than one choice. Right?</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> In the past....far past ,Tokiwa parts, as you
alluded to, had seizing pin/parts problems. I spoke with Randy Morton at
length this past summer about my pinning concerns. The short story is
that the problem was a procedural one at Tokiwa which took a while for the
Management at Tokiwa to acknowledge. IN the process of Randy proving the
problem to them they built new test equipment which quickly caused the parts
to seize up after about 2 to 3 thousand repetitions. ummm!
well... </EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> After this encounter Randy hired the
engineer that literally wrote the book on Yamaha flange pinning technique and
brought him to Tokiwa book and all, where he employed the tried & true
Yamaha materials & techniques & for many years
now.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> This was good for me to know. The fastest way to
loose money is to use parts that have problems that can only be solved by our
free/expensive labor to ....do over! </EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Also next time you need more sos tab clearance why not
use a cardboard shim on the rear of the old blocks.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> By the way the New Tokiwa wippens for Steinway are a
spitting image of the Renner part provided by the Steinway N.Y
factory. I have a set on the shelf. They are beautiful
& I am installing this set soon in a Stwy D. I have compared them
side by side with the Renner parts & you cannot tell the difference except
the Tokiwa parts have a number conveinently located on the repitition
lever.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> FWIW</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Cheers</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Dale</EM></STRONG></DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Does anyone out there have
recent comparative experience with BOTH the Renner and <SPAN
class=SpellE>Tokiwa</SPAN> damper back-action kits? I've installed several
of the Renner kits, but the quality of the pinning of this last one left a
lot to be desired. As you can see in the photo the post pinning was
substantially out of square. The flange pinning of this particular
underlever was also off, but in the opposite direction, which had the effect
of throwing the post even farther out of alignment. This was probably the
worst example in the set, but many others were off by lesser amounts. I'm
thinking that I might try the <SPAN class=SpellE>Tokiwa</SPAN> kit next
time, but I’ve had problems with seizing centers on other <SPAN
class=SpellE>Tokiwa</SPAN> parts in the past, and as a result I am reluctant
to use them in general.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Renner has also switched from
beech to <SPAN class=SpellE>Delignit</SPAN> <SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>for the tray material, so be careful
if you’re drilling for the flange screws using their countersinking bit – I
snapped one of the screws off due to the higher density! Next time I’ll ream
the holes out a few thousandths more. The other lesson that I learned on
this one is to check the horizontal clearance between the backside of the
post and the <SPAN class=SpellE>upstop</SPAN> rail. Since the new style
sprung sostenuto tab flanges extend slightly behind the post they were
rubbing on this particular example, which I corrected by making new pivot
blocks with the hole located about 1/32” farther from the belly
rail.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">- Mark
Dierauf</SPAN></FONT></P></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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