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<DIV>I don't have anything to offer beyond what Michael Morvan and Ron Nossaman
have stated. Just knowing a bit about wood and glues, I would try the Morvan
method first, and if that doesn't work, try Ron N's suggestion.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>My heart goes out to you. That isn't fair. Somebody bonding a soundboard to
a rim with epoxy is totally out-of-line - and that coming from epoxy-man
himself!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry Farrell</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><FONT
id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2><STRONG><EM> Hey Mr
glue. So tell me....I'm redoing a belly job that failed. A
compression crowner gone amuck. It's<FONT size=5> Not</FONT> my board,
but some body else & the board was glued into the rim with
Epoxy. Ughhh!</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> I'd ideally like to get down to the bare
wood. as the epoxy is laid down on top of the old hide glue & all.
My question is how to get it off in ten minutes without gnashing of
teeth. Yes I've tried scraping...takes forever. tried soaking a
section in acetone for a short while. Tried carbide grinders. I'm
looking for the easy answer..Stuffs like steel. I suppose I could just
leave the epoxy which is flat a smooth & glue the new board back in
with epoxy but I don't like this idea because of what I'm currently
dealing with. My admonition to other bellyheads is, that epoxy
isn't necessary to keep a sound board ....which is wood to stay glued to a
rim....also wood......JMO</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> suggestions?</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Dale</EM></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face=Arial size=2>List,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Some helpful information on
glues:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>White glue (Elmer's, consumer grade glue,
etc..,) and yellow glue (Titebond, industrial grade wood glue,
etc..) are both PVA'S, (Polyvinyl Acetate) and both are
"Aliphatic Resins". PVC-E glue is also in the PVA family with a few
different compounds added to make it remain semi-flexible when
dry. Aliphatic Resin is a general chemistry term that implies "at the
molecular level, these products (glues, etc..) arrange themselves in
chains". When yellow glue came out, manufacturers needed a fancy slogan
to differentiate yellow glue from white glue so they called it
Aliphatic resin, but in reality, not economy, they both are
Aliphatic Resin. A lot of the Yellow Glues are stronger than
the White Glues, but they are both PVA'S and are both Aliphatic Resins.
PVA'S are further broken down into subgroups based on their strength,
application, water resistance etc.. The PVA'S are a huge family of glues
that most of us use and think they are something distinctly different
because of what they are called or what someone recommends they be used for.
Choose your glues carefully, any supplier/manufacturer can supply you with a
specifications sheet or MSDS, this will give you the properties of the glue
and most importantly will tell you what the MANUFACTURER created the glue
for, not simply what a supply house markets it as. Of all the glue
books I have read, "The Glue Book" by William Tandy Young makes all
this easy to understand. Remember, spare the next technician the pain of
fixing an improper glue job, because the next technician might be you. I
think Reblitz said something like that first.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael A. Morvan<BR>Blackstone Valley
Piano<BR>Dedicated To Advancing The Art Of Keyboard Restoration<BR>76 Sutton
Street<BR>Uxbridge, Ma. 01569<BR>(508) 278-9762<BR><A
title=mailto:Keymaestro@verizon.net
href="mailto:Keymaestro@verizon.net">Keymaestro@verizon.net</A><BR><A
title=http://www.pianoandorgankeys.com/
href="http://www.pianoandorgankeys.com/">www.pianoandorgankeys.com</A> </FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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