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<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3>If an iron will work, why not a heat
gun?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL
MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 24, 2007 10:15
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Cleaning epoxy off
soundboard joint --- was glues</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Dale,</DIV>
<DIV> If the epoxy was applied over the hide glue, you may
be in luck. The original hide glue will have saturated the pores in the area
you need to glue the board and have prevented the epoxy from taking a good
permanent hold. I would remove as much of the old board as possible
and quickly scrape it down to the epoxy, then go around the rim with
an iron (the hotter the better) and a wet face cloth, this will soften the
epoxy, and if the epoxy was applied over the hide glue it should come off
pretty easy. Epoxy will not stick to hide glue well, they are not compatible
glues. Heat should activate and release both glues. A sharp off-set
chisel will clean the glue surface well. Fortunately the surface you glue the
soundboard to is a hardwood, this will make removal and scraping easier.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Michael A. Morvan<BR>Blackstone Valley Piano<BR>Dedicated To Advancing
The Art Of Keyboard Restoration<BR>76 Sutton Street<BR>Uxbridge, Ma.
01569<BR>(508) 278-9762<BR><A
href="mailto:Keymaestro@verizon.net">Keymaestro@verizon.net</A><BR><A
href="http://www.pianoandorgankeys.com">www.pianoandorgankeys.com</A>
<BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Erwinspiano@aol.com
href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 24, 2007 8:51
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Cleaning epoxy off soundboard
joint --- was glues</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Great Post Mike</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Hey Mr glue. So tell me....I'm redoing a belly
job that failed. A compression crowner gone amuck. It's<FONT
size=5> Not</FONT> my board, but some body else & the board was
glued into the rim with Epoxy. Ughhh!</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> I'd ideally like to get down to the bare
wood. as the epoxy is laid down on top of the old hide glue & all.
My question is how to get it off in ten minutes without gnashing of
teeth. Yes I've tried scraping...takes forever. tried soaking a
section in acetone for a short while. Tried carbide grinders.
I'm looking for the easy answer..Stuffs like steel. I suppose I could
just leave the epoxy which is flat a smooth & glue the new board
back in with epoxy but I don't like this idea because of what I'm
currently dealing with. My admonition to other bellyheads is,
that epoxy isn't necessary to keep a sound board ....which is wood to
stay glued to a rim....also wood......JMO</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> suggestions?</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Dale</EM></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face=Arial size=2>List,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Some helpful information
on glues:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>White glue (Elmer's, consumer
grade glue, etc..,) and yellow glue (Titebond, industrial
grade wood glue, etc..) are both PVA'S, (Polyvinyl Acetate)
and both are "Aliphatic Resins". PVC-E glue is also in the PVA family with
a few different compounds added to make it remain semi-flexible when
dry. Aliphatic Resin is a general chemistry term that implies "at the
molecular level, these products (glues, etc..) arrange themselves in
chains". When yellow glue came out, manufacturers needed a fancy
slogan to differentiate yellow glue from white glue so they
called it Aliphatic resin, but in reality, not economy, they
both are Aliphatic Resin. A lot of the Yellow Glues
are stronger than the White Glues, but they are both PVA'S and are both
Aliphatic Resins. PVA'S are further broken down into subgroups based on
their strength, application, water resistance etc.. The PVA'S are a huge
family of glues that most of us use and think they are something
distinctly different because of what they are called or what someone
recommends they be used for. Choose your glues carefully, any
supplier/manufacturer can supply you with a specifications sheet or MSDS,
this will give you the properties of the glue and most importantly will
tell you what the MANUFACTURER created the glue for, not simply what a
supply house markets it as. Of all the glue books I have read, "The
Glue Book" by William Tandy Young makes all this easy to understand.
Remember, spare the next technician the pain of fixing an improper glue
job, because the next technician might be you. I think Reblitz said
something like that first.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael A. Morvan<BR>Blackstone Valley
Piano<BR>Dedicated To Advancing The Art Of Keyboard Restoration<BR>76
Sutton Street<BR>Uxbridge, Ma. 01569<BR>(508) 278-9762<BR><A
title=mailto:Keymaestro@verizon.net
href="mailto:Keymaestro@verizon.net">Keymaestro@verizon.net</A><BR><A
title=http://www.pianoandorgankeys.com/
href="http://www.pianoandorgankeys.com/">www.pianoandorgankeys.com</A> </FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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