<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.5730.11" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Arial" bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV> <DIV><STRONG><EM>  Great Post Mike</EM></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><EM>  Hey Mr glue.  So tell me....I'm redoing a belly job that failed. A compression crowner gone amuck. It's<FONT size=5> Not</FONT> my board, but  some body else & the board was glued into the rim with Epoxy.  Ughhh!</EM></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><EM>   I'd ideally like to get down to the bare wood.  as the epoxy is laid down on top of the old hide glue & all. My question is how to get it off in ten minutes without gnashing of teeth.  Yes I've tried scraping...takes forever.  tried soaking a section in acetone for a short while.  Tried carbide grinders.  I'm looking for the easy answer..Stuffs like steel.  I suppose I could just leave the epoxy which is flat a smooth & glue the new board back in with epoxy but I don't like this idea because of what I'm currently dealing with.  My admonition to other bellyheads is, that epoxy isn't necessary to keep a sound board ....which is wood to stay glued to a rim....also wood......JMO</EM></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><EM>  suggestions?</EM></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><EM>  Dale</EM></STRONG></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT face=Arial size=2>List,</FONT></DIV> <DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    Some helpful information on glues:</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>White glue (Elmer's, consumer grade glue,  etc..,)  and yellow glue (Titebond, industrial grade wood glue,  etc..) are both PVA'S,  (Polyvinyl Acetate) and both are "Aliphatic Resins". PVC-E glue is also in the PVA family with a few different compounds added to make it remain semi-flexible when dry. Aliphatic Resin is a general chemistry term that implies "at the molecular level, these products (glues, etc..) arrange themselves in chains". When yellow glue came out, manufacturers needed a fancy slogan to differentiate yellow glue from white glue so they called it Aliphatic resin, but in reality, not economy, they both are Aliphatic Resin. A lot of the Yellow Glues are stronger than the White Glues, but they are both PVA'S and are both Aliphatic Resins. PVA'S are further broken down into subgroups based on their strength, application, water resistance etc.. The PVA'S are a huge family of glues that most of us use and think they are something distinctly different because of what they are called or what someone recommends they be used for. Choose your glues carefully, any supplier/manufacturer can supply you with a specifications sheet or MSDS, this will give you the properties of the glue and most importantly will tell you what the MANUFACTURER created the glue for, not simply what a supply house markets it as. Of all the glue books I have read, "The Glue Book" by William Tandy Young makes all this easy to understand. Remember, spare the next technician the pain of fixing an improper glue job, because the next technician might be you. I think Reblitz said something like that first.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael A. Morvan<BR>Blackstone Valley Piano<BR>Dedicated To Advancing The Art Of Keyboard Restoration<BR>76 Sutton Street<BR>Uxbridge, Ma. 01569<BR>(508) 278-9762<BR><A title=mailto:Keymaestro@verizon.net href="mailto:Keymaestro@verizon.net">Keymaestro@verizon.net</A><BR><A title=http://www.pianoandorgankeys.com/ href="http://www.pianoandorgankeys.com/">www.pianoandorgankeys.com</A> </FONT></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>