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<div>Steve,</div>
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<div>Since you didn't ask, I won't tell you that it took me a tad less than 3 hours. I learn things each time that make the job easier. </div>
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<div>Replacing flanges, according to those who've done it (not me!), take longer because of alignment/travel factors. And they waste perfectly good flanges, to boot. The spring cord repair is pretty easy if you use the method that's been published many times on this list. </div>
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<div>On some Yamahas, you HAVE to replace the flanges because they don't have the plate that holds the pin in the birdseye. </div>
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<div style="CLEAR: both">Dave Stahl<br>
<br>
Dave Stahl Piano Service<br>
650-224-3560<br>
dstahlpiano@sbcglobal.net<br>
http://dstahlpiano.net/<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
<div> </div>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: atuneforyou@earthlink.net<br>
To: pianotech@ptg.org<br>
Sent: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 11:29 AM<br>
Subject: RE: Spring cord repair; partial job discovered<br>
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<div>Hey Now to Dave and all on the list.</div>
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<div>Well you mentioned cutting an hour off your previous time...I'm not trying to start another controversy so I won't ask How long? I will say this, why replace the cords/threads with numb fingers? Why not just order new flanges from Yamaha for about $30 some bucks and be done with it? Another question I have, do you file the hammers? After taking the hammers off replacing either the cord or the flange it seems to be too hard to try and match the stings grooves purrrrrfectly. By the way this problem exist on all old YAMAHA'S!!!! The cords will break after 30 or 40 years wether it's grey market or not.</div>
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<div>Off topic a bit but low 50's huh, I played golf on wedensday in the low 80's (not score, that was 85), and skied the next day in near purfect weather @ about 70ish.</div>
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<div>Steve</div>
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<div>sunny so cal</div>
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<div>Pura Vida</div>
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<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid">
<div style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=piannaman@aol.com href="javascript:parent.ComposeTo('piannaman@aol.com', '');"></A></div>
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="javascript:parent.ComposeTo('pianotech@ptg.org', '');">pianotech@ptg.org</A></div>
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 1/27/2007 7:49:22 AM </div>
<div style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Spring cord repair; partial job discovered</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<FONT size=2>
<div> It seems like every other grey market Yamaha upright I run into has breaking hammer return spring cords. I did yet another replacement job yesterday, this time in the customers garage, where temperatures hovered around 50 degrees farenheit all morning. It's hard to manipulate all those little pieces of thread with numb fingers. Still, after getting better at the repetitive tasks required on this job, I cut about an hour off my previous time. </div>
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<div>The interesting about this particular U3 is that somebody had already replaced some of the cords--but only on the notes with no dampers. Somebody obviously found the breaking cord problem, but wanted to sell the piano with a minimum of expense. All the other notes would function to some degree without the hammer return spring, but without the push of the damper spring, the end keys would have a helluva time returning to position. Pretty shoddy.</div>
<div> </div>
<div style="CLEAR: both">Dave Stahl<br>
<br>
Dave Stahl Piano Service<br>
650-224-3560<br>
dstahlpiano@sbcglobal.net<br>
http://dstahlpiano.net/<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
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