<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3020" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Bob, the easiest way to make up the thickness IMHO, would be to simply add sufficient thickness maple (or any reasonable hardwood) to the backside of a 1-1/2" thick multilam block. However, some rebuilders, including me, have of late been topping our pinblocks with a layer of Delignit. The block pictured below is a multilam with about a 1/4" lamination of Delignit on top (plus a veneer of decorative hardwood - open-faced pinblock on this one). You could extend the Delignit and back harwood the full 59-1/2" and then fill in the 1/2" gap with a hunk of harwood epoxied in place.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:001701c74971$9b256600$0302a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Or if you have more time that money, make your own block from scratch - it's not rocket science! Below is a block I made from quarter-sawn hard maple (much the same approach as the Bolduc block) and then capped with Delignit - I think the cap on this one is almost 1/2" thick (I think 1/4" is sufficient).</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:001801c74971$9b27d700$0302a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Do you have no use for the left over block material? If you don't want the left over material, and perhaps don't have the tooling for cutting the Delignit, etc. I would be happy to talk to you about making one up for you - I can make it the full 59-1/2", any thickness, cap or not, whatever you want.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell<BR>Farrell Piano</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><A href="http://www.farrellpiano.com">www.farrellpiano.com</A><BR><A href="mailto:terry@farrellpiano.com">terry@farrellpiano.com</A></FONT></DIV></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2> <BR>> Bolduc has an upright pinblock for 310.00<BR>> (Pianotek)but I'm thinking of making one to save some<BR>> $.  The block will need to be 2 1/4" by 9 1/4" by 59<BR>> 1/2".  I can get a multilam flat-sawn double panel<BR>> block from PianoTek for 151.00.  That block will be 1<BR>> 3/8 by 17" by 59".  Not wide enough to cut the 17"<BR>> into two blocks to be glued together.  But, I could<BR>> buy a single panel 1 3/8" or whatever thickness<BR>> delignit for 101.00 and glue them together at the<BR>> approp. thickness.  <BR>> <BR>> Or, I could get a piece of 8/4 or 6/4 hard maple and<BR>> glue it to the back of the multilam.  Still about $90<BR>> - 100.00 for a kiln dried board.   <BR>> I  would have between 7 and  8" width left of the<BR>> multilam double  panel - not enough for another block<BR>> upright or grand.<BR>> Any of these blocks I buy will be 1/2" short of the 59<BR>> 1/2 but I can take care of that.<BR>> <BR>> Any better ideas?  <BR>> <BR>> Bob Hull</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>