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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I highly recommend monitoring two things on a daily
basis - water level and humidifier operation duration.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The guy is adding water every week - but is the
unit running dry well before that?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Plug an old analog electric clock into the same
socket as the humidifier unit is plugged into. That way every time the
humidifier is powered, the clock will run, and when the humidifier stops, the
clock will stop. Actually, you'd want to check that every twelve hours. If the
clock never turns off and the humidifier has enough water, then the humidifier
is undersized for your environmental conditions.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you don't know if the unit is using up all the
water and don't know if the unit is running and how long, you can't make any
educated decisions about how to modify the system.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have a six-foot grand in my living room with
about 200 watts of rods under it for dehumidification. Monitoring with the clock
showed me that less rods would not lower the RH enough for the humidistat to
shut the rods off - it was undersized for my living room.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">Undercover AND string cover. 6' 4" is kind of a
'tweener size for the grand DC system and maybe, in that environment, a second
installed tank would help. Definitely start with the undercover.</DIV>
<P>Alan Barnard<BR></P>
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<HR>
Original message<BR>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Early this past fall I regulated a 1920s S&S
A and installed a full DC system--but no undercover. The piano is kept
closed and covered when not in use. The church has AC, though to me
it felt humid (for some reason I didn't have my hygrometer with
me). Anyway, before Christmas I tuned the piano again and it was
17 cents low. Today I tuned it again and it was 14 cents
low. Yikes. The weather here lately has been extremely cold
(OK, you nanooks of the north can laugh) and the church was incredibly dry--it
didn't register on my not very good hygrometer. A couple weeks ago, the
music director called to tell me that tuning pins were slipping like crazy on
the harpsichord I worked on last December. I thought today that the
tuning pins on the piano felt looser than in the past (or was it my
imagination?). AND I noticed that the regulation was off, too.
Geeze. Apparently the heat is always on in the church--not one of those
where it gets turned off and on, and it has felt warm to me the times I've
been in there.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>So...you get the picture that the place is
dry. Here is the question--how good a job should the DC system be doing
in these circumstances? Is anybody else experiencing this? The
music director said he is filling the DC tank at least once a week. I
even took a look to see if I had plugged things in the wrong place. Is
there anything else I can do, besides put an undercover on? Can
undercovers make a huge difference in a situation where there
isn't significant air movement, etc? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I thought about recommending that the church look
into a big April-Aire system. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Any suggestions are welcome.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Barbara Richmond, RPT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>near Peoria,
Illinois</FONT> </DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>