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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></font></b><font size=2
face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'> Re: strip muting
with sheet metal</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
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12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Once again; I would suggest using a piece of angled aluminum - my piece
is about 6-7" long, and an inch wide on either side, at a 90 degree angle;
simply lift the dampers with the pedal, slide the aluminum piece in behind and
on top of them, and then with a short ruler of some sort push the strip down
all the way underneath the dampers (which are completely protected from damage
by the aluminum strip<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Allen Wright, RPT<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>On 26 Feb 2007, at 00:22, John Formsma wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=3
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>You probably have a piece
of stiff cardboard around the house that you could cut and use temporarily.
I've taken the metal from a VCR housing to make stuff with. Might find
something around your house. <grin><br>
<br>
<font color=navy><span style='color:navy'>Along with my flexible tag board “treble
damper protection device” (see earlier post), I carry a piece of
plexiglass about the same size, that I procured from the disposal bin at the
local hardware (which cost me $2.00), to push the mute down below the dampers.
Sand the edges and corners round. The long end of the mute is placed in
the space for the action bracket. BTW, the mute is thin piece of 1”
wide action cloth, cut at a taper from 3/8” to 5/8” and left at the
original length. I use the handle of my split mute to insert the strip
from C8 down to the break in the section, above the dampers. Then employ
the flexible…ah… treble damper protection device to “save”
the dampers that I just lifted with the damper pedal. The rigid “treble
damper positioning device” engages the strip mute to slide the mute below
the damper line with the long end hanging out over the hammer rail. Thin
action cloth is required because the strings get closer together at the bridge.
This technique is about 6 years old, and has worked on virtually every vertical
action I’ve encountered-even the dreaded plastic actions from the 50’s
and bird cage actions. The insertion devices work well for a variety of
other uses.</span></font><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=2 color=navy
face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Paul C<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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