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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>FWIW - The better two glue surfaces mate, the
better glue joint you will get with Titebond. When wood has splintered apart,
even if there is no old glue residue, it is often difficult to get the
splintered surfaces back together perfectly. That is why I prefer a thickened
epoxy adhesive with good wetting properties - any gaps are no
problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Some may argue that is overkill. Perhaps a valid point. A
few good through-bolts going through backposts likely are all you need anyway.
It just makes me sleep better.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">OOOPS—I forget to
mention glue! This one was clean . Nice raw wood surfaces with no glue residue
, so on principle I vacuumed out the opening and used titebond
spread with a soundboard steel just before the gap was
closed.</SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>