<html><head><style type="text/css"></style></head><body><div style="font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif">Mike,</DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif"> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif">Those are good points. I'll continue to glue/epoxy for peace of mind, and I like Ron's allusion to showmanship while manipulating glue clean-up. That has to be worth another $15.</DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif"> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif">You mentioned that sometimes screws don't line up with backposts. I don't have a problem drilling a hole in the plate so there *is* a bolt going through all/most of the backposts. (--currently shopping for a 3XL flame-suit...)</DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif"> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif">Dave Davis, RPT<BR></DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif">----- Original Message ----<BR>From: Mike Spalding <mike.spalding1@verizon.net><BR>To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org><BR>Sent: Friday, March 2, 2007 9:47:04 AM<BR>Subject: Re: Pinblock/back separation repair<BR><BR> <DIV>Dave,<BR><BR>Often at least one backpost does not have a screw lined up with it. <BR>Often the filler blocks have separated from the backposts. Often the <BR>kind of piano that has separation (Wurlie, Sohmer, other small consoles) <BR>have marginal tuning stability due to lightweight frame design. If <BR>spending another hour will result in a structure that is as stable or <BR>more stable than original, then it ought to be worth the price of <BR>another hour to the owner. Besides, it helps me sleep better.<BR><BR>Mike<BR><BR>Dave Davis wrote:<BR>> I readily endorse this method of not lowering pitch if the piano is <BR>> already flat. I first read this from Ron N a year or two ago and <BR>> recently had the opportunity to give it a try on a S&S Model VO (very <BR>> old). Ron N also made me re-think whether it is important, or even <BR>> necessary, to have a secure glue joint. The bolts totally secure the <BR>> pinblock to the backposts, is it even necessary to squirt glue or <BR>> epoxy into the joint?<BR>> Dave Davis, RPT<BR>><BR>> ----- Original Message ----<BR>> From: tom <tomtuner@verizon.net><BR>> To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org><BR>> Sent: Friday, March 2, 2007 8:31:29 AM<BR>> Subject: RE: Pinblock/back separation repair<BR>><BR>> List,<BR>><BR>> My last back repair was on a generic spinet –early 50’s as I recall.<BR>><BR>> I’ve often lowered pitch before pulling things together with heavy C <BR>> clamps, but this piano was 100 cents + low .<BR>><BR>> I set up my accutuner and checked pitch across the scale as I <BR>> –SLOWLY!!! --tightened and closed the back.<BR>><BR>> Easiest pitch raise ever! The thing came up right around pitch as the <BR>> back closed up. .<BR>><BR>> This piano had plate screws in the right places to secure the repair. <BR>> I removed them and drilled through for bolts.<BR>><BR>> I like to use carriage bolts with the head on the back side with <BR>> washers on both sides and lock washer and nut on the front.<BR>><BR>> I usually bring a few lengths of bolt and if nec. cut any protruding <BR>> threads with a hack saw. File smooth and you have a neat repair <BR>> without any protruding nuts on the back to scratch the wall.<BR>><BR>> Then tune, tune, tune .and to answer the question the job took a few <BR>> hours including a few passes to stabilize tuning.<BR>><BR>> I set up follow-up tuning shortly after as we were on the cusp of a <BR>> season change here in N.E.<BR>><BR>> Tom Driscoll RPT<BR>><BR>>         ----- Original Message -----<BR>><BR>>             I need to do this repair on a 46 year old Sohmer upright,<BR>>             model 34K. I have the procedural description found in<BR>>             Randy Potter's course but I'm looking for a rough estimate<BR>>             of the person hours involved. (Already consulted "G" Piano<BR>>             Works Repair Labor Guide, to no avail. But Joe, how do you<BR>>             like that citation?) Anyone have any ideas how long each<BR>>             bolt takes? the entire job? Any help/guidance would be<BR>>             greatly appreciated.<BR>><BR>>             Jim Frazee<BR>><BR>></DIV></DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif"><BR></DIV></div></body></html>