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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=3 color=navy
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt;color:navy'>Along with my
flexible tag board “treble damper protection device” (see earlier
post), I carry a piece of plexiglass about the same size, that I procured from
the disposal bin at the local hardware (which cost me $2.00), to push the mute
down below the dampers. Sand the edges and corners round. The long end of
the mute is placed in the space for the action bracket. BTW, the mute is
thin piece of 1” wide action cloth, cut at a taper from 3/8” to
5/8” and left at the original length. I use the handle of my split
mute to insert the strip from C8 down to the break in the section, above the
dampers. Then employ the flexible…ah… treble damper
protection device to “save” the dampers that I just lifted with the
damper pedal. The rigid “treble damper positioning device”
engages the strip mute to slide the mute below the damper line with the long
end hanging out over the hammer rail. Thin action cloth is required
because the strings get closer together at the bridge. This technique is
about 6 years old, and has worked on virtually every vertical action I’ve
encountered-even the dreaded plastic actions from the 50’s and bird cage
actions. The insertion devices work well for a variety of other uses.</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'><font size=2 color=navy
face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Paul C<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
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