<HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=utf-8"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3059" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"> <DIV>Bob:</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>You just described my technique to a "T". I use the wasting stroke in exactly the same fashion, and no more than two curling strokes. I cut the side first with a fine Japanese kerfing saw and join the cut to the inside bridge pin hole with a fine blade hand-fashioned into a curve from a putty knife. I have been using a long chisel with a 1 1/8" face hollow-ground by hand and I also have a rotary strop which I use every 4-6 cuts to keep the edge. When it's sharp, it cuts like butter!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV><STRONG>"If you want to know the truth, stop having opinions" (Chinese fortune cookie)</STRONG></DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 03/16/07 01:05:43 Central Daylight Time, BobDavis88 writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"> <DIV> <STYLE type=text/css> .aolmailheader {font-size:8pt; color:black; font-family:Arial} a.aolmailheader:link {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:visited {color:magenta; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:active {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:hover {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} </STYLE> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR> <DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 3/15/2007 8:01:11 PM Pacific Standard Time, rnossaman@cox.net writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT face=Arial>"Long" always worked best for me. A long bladed 1" paring <BR>chisel is my choice for hand notching.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">Different strokes, so to speak.... I've tried several lengths, including a very long Sorby lathe tool. I think that was suggested by Willis Snyder. I sort of liked the leverage control I had with the "push" hand on the long chisel, but I have gone back to the short Japanese chisel, kept really sharp. It just fits my body best.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">I like two things about it. First, I use two different strokes: After the side notches have been made (often roughed in with a saw, then finished with a different chisel w/a curved profile), I put the notching chisel just ahead of the holes, and bump it with the heel of my hand to shear a straight sloped wasting stroke, which removes much of the wood. Then I bisect the holes, push straight down to start the cut, and do the scoop. I like to be able to do the bump and the scoop with the same chisel, and I like having both hands close together like a golf grip, and close to the bridge. Just my take.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">Bob Davis</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV><BR><BR><BR> <DIV><FONT style="FONT: 10pt ARIAL, SAN-SERIF; COLOR: black"> <HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px"> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at <A title=http://www.aol.com/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000339 href="http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000339" target=_blank alt="http://www.aol.com/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000339"><B>AOL.com</B></A>. </FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>