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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I was referring to the leather wheel on the Tormek
- that's why it's not easy to flatten a surface on a wheel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>If you want to hit it with the
leather, lay the leather flat and strop just like the rest of the lapping
procedure, with the exception that you'd need to use pull strokes only (figure
"S's"?). Focus on keeping that blade back flat on the leather. I
just had a look at a few of my chisels. 6 of 8 had zero back bevel, 2
well, er, maybe my wife polished those two, or, maybe my three year
old........ So, yes it can be done.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>When it comes down to it, I don't
know that the slight back bevel you are creating matters much. It is
"agin' the law," but, well, how do your bridge notches look?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>William R.
Monroe</FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Well, because of someone polishing the backside
with a leather strop and making a small bevel on the backside. When I look
at the edge with a magnifying glass, I can see that I am putting a small
bevel on the backside. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry
Farrell</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>