<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3059" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Gene,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Okay, I think I know where you are coming from. Standard sharpening techniques require you to grind down that full thickness of the blade.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Forget that.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I picked up a Norton white aluminum oxide grinding wheel  </FONT><A href="http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10088"><FONT face=Arial size=2>http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10088</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2> - 60 grit. I rigged up some spacers and put it on my Tormek. The Norton wheel is slightly smaller in diameter than the Tormek grinding wheel. I grind it wet.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The technique is to simply grind out a hollow in the chisel blade surface - that way when you go to sharpen it, you are only grinding on the tip-most quarter-inch or so of the blade. Look at the photos below:</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:00a501c76851$65056300$0302a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0> </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:00a601c76851$65056300$0302a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Especially the second photo you can see the hollow that does not get ground on during normal sharpening. Actually, my chisels are ready for another go at the Norton wheel to deepen the hollow ground out part. As my hollow exists now, I see that I am grinding approximately 50% of the full surface. All you need is the very tip of the chisel to be sharpened - grind it right down with the coarse Norton wheel until you just have a small unaffected tip.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Does that make sense?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Believe me, unless you have some sort of grinding machine that you can mount the chisel in and turn on for 20 hours, you will never get that full face of a thick chisel like this ground flat and polished - grind out a hollow and save yourself a zillion hours of frustration!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> How to sharpen. The wet stone has little effect. They are extremely hard. <BR>> Should I plan on purchasing an electric sharpener?<BR>> Gene<BR>> ----- Original Message ----- <BR>>> Yes. I have his 1/2" x 1" and his 1/2" x 12". Nice chisels. I like them <BR>>> also and use them for notching. What is your question regarding sharpening <BR>>> them?<BR>>><BR>>> Terry Farrell<BR>>><BR>>> ----- Original Message ----- <BR>>>> Anyone have experience sharpening the 3/4x3/4 Mazzaglia chisel?<BR>>>> Gene Nelson<BR></FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>