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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> Now I wonder. Why all the extraordinary
trouble to mirror <BR>> polish the back sides of chisels and plane blades
dead flat? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT size=3>I think only my trouble. I have been
polishing the back side of my chisels and plane blades on the leather wheel of
my Tormek. I suspect even someone with good blade sharpening skills would
have a tough time making a blade back dead flat on a wheel. When someone with
limited skills (or lack thereof), you start putting a small bevel on the
backside.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT size=3></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><FONT size=3>Whomever suggested that I keep my
Shapton stones, I think might have a good suggestion for me - maybe I'll try
working the backsides of my blades on the stones. The only thing I didn't like
about the stones is that you need to have the skill to hold a blade at the
correct angle to sharpen the bevel - I have never been successful at
that.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>> The control and precision required to fit traditional Japanese
<BR>> joinery is far beyond that needed to notch a bridge, or much <BR>>
of anything else we do to pianos. A notch scoop with only one <BR>> nominally
critical edge is somewhat different from maintaining <BR>> straight lines and
tight fits on three axes in a complicated <BR>> joint in finish carpentry.
And why would a plane blade need a <BR>> hollow behind the edge under ANY
conditions? As friction <BR>> relief and fine depth control with a
freehand chisel used in <BR>> microfitting joints, yes. In a plane blade that
is wedged in a <BR>> block that handles the cut depth, friction, and
presentation <BR>> angle, what's the hollow for?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Are you referring to a hollow on the backside of the blade or
on the bevel? I did ask about a hollow on the back side of a Japanese chisel,
but my plane blades do not have any hollow at all. On the 1/2-inch-thick
Mazzaglia chisels, grinding the entire beveled surface (on my 1" chisel, you
have about a one-inch-square bevel surface) is extremely time consuming. If
you put a slight hollow on the bevel, you only have to grind on a thin swath at
the edge and the other end - makes sharpening go much faster.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Is that what you were addressing?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR> <BR>> Virtually all my sharpening is done with a coarse 6" DMT
<BR>> Diasharp "stone" and a steel or ceramic rod if necessary, or a <BR>>
worn out fine grit EZE-LAP (I think it is). Major chisel or <BR>> plane blade
reshaping, in the rare instance of need, is done <BR>> carefully on the bench
grinder with a coarse wheel. My <BR>> notching chisel has an intentionally
slightly rounded back <BR>> edge (maybe 1mm), because I can steer it better
through the <BR>> scoop than a flat backed blade.<BR>> <BR>> There is
nothing magic about Japanese chisels other than the <BR>> extremely hard
steel that the laminated construction allows at <BR>> the edge (which is
admittedly terrific). The presumed need for <BR>> a mirror finish on an
absolutely flat back, I don't see as <BR>> valid for the uses we make of
them. If someone made laminated <BR>> long bladed paring chisels with flat
backs, I'd likely upgrade <BR>> my chisel collection. Does anyone?<BR>>
<BR>> Ron N<BR>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- <BR>>>
Something that has been troubling me ever since I bought my Japanese
<BR>>> chisel: Starting just a few millimeters back from the sharpened
edge, <BR>>> the entire backside has a hollow ground out. Why? Is that to
make <BR>>> flattening the backside easier? After many sharpenings, the
edge of my <BR>>> chisel is getting very close to the beginning of that
hollow. Of course, <BR>>> as soon as the edge gets right up to the hollow,
the chisel dies. Is <BR>>> this just a feature to sell more
chisels?<BR>>> <BR>>> Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>