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<DIV><FONT size=2>I use a cabinet scraper as in the photo attached right to take
out any saw or machine marks. Just a few swipes with the scraper bowed to give
crisp edges. Very easy with a sharp scraper.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Fenton</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">Farrell</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 16, 2007 6:41
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Notching delignit bridge
cap</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Hi Jim,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Yes, I do use epoxy - West System, thickened to a
creamy consistency with #403 Microfibers. I've done it both ways - run
the laminations through a drum sander to get a nice smooth
bonding surface (prefer to not use planer as the epoxy bonds better to a
slightly-rough sanded surface), or if I have a good blade on my band saw and
am producing really smooth cuts, yes I sometime go directly from the saw to
bonding. However, I think you get a better product by getting everything equal
thickness, etc. with the drum sander.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>If I built a set a caps for a client, the laminations
are run through the drum sander.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- <BR>> What
secondary stock prep on the various bridge lamininations follows your<BR>>
bandsaw resawing...Or, do you use epoxy so you can <BR>> go right from the
bandsaw to the glueup?<BR>> <BR>> Jim I
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