<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3059" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Dave, Thanks for putting that together!!!! This definitely gets copied, hole punched and inserted to my travel folder of repairs tips and techniques. It all sounds pretty straight forward although I am scratching my forehead a bit over number 8 but as I proceed with the repair I'm sure it will spell itself. By the way, detent is described by the Oxford dictionary as <EM>a catch in a machine that prevents motion until released....</EM> like a clocks gears. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Greatly appreciated,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>David C. </FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=piannaman@aol.com href="mailto:piannaman@aol.com">piannaman@aol.com</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, April 22, 2007 6:41 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Damper tray flange screw</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>I would think that <SPAN class=correction id="">Kawai</SPAN> might be more forthcoming than <SPAN class=correction id="">Steinway</SPAN> with info about it... but you never know. Here's the text, minus the photos with a few brief alterations.  It should be pretty easy to visualize, but if not, as I said, I'll send you a copy.<BR><BR>1. Remove Music Rack, cheek blocks, <SPAN class=correction id="">keyslip</SPAN> and action from piano.<BR>2. Remove pedal rod from pedal socket<BR>3. Turn damper lever stop hook out of the way<BR>4. Remove screw holding <SPAN class=correction id="">sostenuto</SPAN> lever pitman (small <SPAN class=correction id="">phillips</SPAN>)<BR>5. check to see that damper pitman is clear of damper tray<BR>6.  Starting at bass end, remove <SPAN class=correction id="">sostenuto</SPAN> blade retainer plates form each of first three <SPAN class=correction id="">sostenuto</SPAN> rod brackets.  Note <SPAN class=correction id="">directon</SPAN> of the (detent???) in the retainer plate for later <SPAN class=correction id="">reassembly</SPAN>.  The rod will slide (to the left) away from the last (treble) bracket, making removal of the last retainer plate optional.  Note:  it is not necessary to remove the <SPAN class=correction id="">sotenuto</SPAN> pitman from the <SPAN class=correction id="">sostenuto</SPAN> blade.  Also, the <SPAN class=correction id="">sostenuto</SPAN> blade bushings should remain factory-glued to the <SPAN class=correction id="">sostenuto</SPAN> brackets.  No force should be required for this operation.<BR>7.  Using long <SPAN class=correction id="">phillips</SPAN> screwdriver, unscrew damper lift rail assembly from bulkhead by loosening the four screws which attach the damper lift rail.  These are located at the bass and treble ends of the damper lift rail, and at each scale break.<BR>8.  With one hand underneath the damper tray, tilt the tray down and forward, while raising the rear of the tray slightly.  With free hand, remove two screws from damper lift rail flange block(s).  This will require inserting the (#2) 8" <SPAN class=correction id="">phillips</SPAN> screwdriver between to adjacent GROUPS of strings (not between <SPAN class=correction id="">unisons</SPAN>!).  Note(remove any dampers which might prevent access to these screws.<BR>9.  Pivot damper lift rail flange block up and out of the way to gain access to the flange screw.  Remove the damper lift rail flange <SPAN class=correction id="">block</SPAN> screw.  Note:  sometimes a film of glue will be between the end of the damper lift rail cloth and one edge of the damper lift rail flange block.  If this is the case, carefully cut the glue line with a sharp knife or razor blade.<BR>10-.  If replacing only flange, inspect block to assure that there is no hairline crack running <SPAN class=correction id="">across</SPAN> the rear (adjacent to center pin), which will cause the center pin in the new flange to "walk out" in a very short time.  Otherwise <SPAN class=correction id="">repin</SPAN> new flange into position observing customary methods; (center pin tight in wooden part of block, enough to NOT allow block to fall of its own weight).<BR><BR>11.  Replace new damper lift rail flange block in reverse order of above procedure.  <BR><BR>12.  Check damper <SPAN class=correction id="">upstop</SPAN> rail.  It may have been forced up out of its proper position.  The damper <SPAN class=correction id="">upstop</SPAN> rail is intended to stop DAMPER travel, not pedal travel.  <SPAN class=correction id="">Proper</SPAN> positioning is to adjust a sharp key at various points on the <SPAN class=correction id="">keybed</SPAN>, allowing about 1mm of extra damper travel above the distance the damper travels from the key.  The pedal travel should then be adjusted using the capstan screw underneath the piano, to correspond exactly to the damper travel from the sharp keys; i. e., damper lift should be the same from the pedal as from the key.  <BR><BR>(I personally find it easier to adjust pedal travel before upstop rail; that way you can adjust the upstop rail by gauging it from damper lift from pedal with the action out, which it is when your setting upstop height anyway!)<BR><BR>Hope this is useful to you and others on the list,<BR></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV style="CLEAR: both">Dave Stahl, <SPAN class=correction id="">RPT</SPAN><BR><BR>Dave Stahl Piano Service<BR>650-224-3560<BR>dstahlpiano@sbcglobal.net<BR>http://dstahlpiano.net/<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: chadwick61@cox.net<BR>To: pianotech@ptg.org<BR>Sent: Sun, 22 <SPAN class=correction id="">Apr</SPAN> 2007 1:11 PM<BR>Subject: Re: Damper tray flange screw<BR><BR> <DIV id=AOLMsgPart_2_f0f5136b-05c4-41b6-aeb5-6eb1d5166636> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thank you Dave. I'll try to get something from <SPAN class=correction id="">Kawai</SPAN> or S&S/Boston first. If I come up empty I'd like to get a copy of your technical bulletin. I can think of several other pianos in my care that need attention to this area. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>David C. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=correction id="">Las</SPAN> Vegas</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,0) 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; moz-background-clip: initial; moz-background-origin: initial; moz-background-inline-policy: initial"><B>From:</B> <A title=piannaman@aol.com href="mailto:piannaman@aol.com">piannaman@aol.com</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, April 22, 2007 9:10 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Damper tray flange screw</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Hi David,<BR><BR>I got some technical info from <SPAN class=correction id="">Kawai</SPAN> awhile back.  They have a little kit with a technical bulletin attached for replacing the damper flange blocks.  I suspect it's the same as on your Boston.  In it is the information you will need to gain access to the necessary screws, as well as information on replacing the blocks, flanges, and pedal system adjustments.<BR><BR>I can copy it for you and send it along, or you can see if you can get a similar bulletin from Boston.<BR><BR>Let me know if you'd like me to send you a copy.  I was unable to compress the file to a small enough size to make it practical to send via e-mail, but I might be able to figure out how to fax the thing, or snail mail it if necessary.  <BR><BR><BR></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV style="CLEAR: both">Dave Stahl, <SPAN class=correction id="">RPT</SPAN><BR><BR>Dave Stahl Piano Service<BR>650-224-3560<BR><A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("dstahlpiano%40sbcglobal.net", "");'>dstahlpiano@sbcglobal.net</A><BR><A href="http://dstahlpiano.net/" target=_blank>http://dstahlpiano.net/</A><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: <A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("chadwick61%40cox.net", "");'>chadwick61@cox.net</A><BR>To: <A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("pianotech%40ptg.org", "");'>pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR>Sent: Sat, 21 <SPAN class=correction id="">Apr</SPAN> 2007 10:38 PM<BR>Subject: Damper tray flange screw<BR><BR> <DIV id=AOLMsgPart_3_cb3b596e-725c-4135-90bb-10f5cc101f30> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Does anyone have a special tool or trick to tighten the flange screw that the damper tray is mounted to? (see photo) The piano is a Boston <SPAN class=correction id="">GP-156</SPAN> about 3 years old. The complaint was that the notes were in continuous sustain mode. I operated the pedal and heard many little clicking noises. Upon inspection all of the <SPAN class=correction id="">underlever</SPAN> flanges were just about ready to fall out. Every screw in the piano was loose. It was stored in a garage for several months while the client was building their home and out here in <SPAN class=correction id="">Las</SPAN> Vegas it is usually a death sentence in the summer months as it drastically dries out any moisture content that the wood might have and shrinking away from the fasteners.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>It looks impossible to get any kind of a tool on the screw head without removing the entire <SPAN class=correction id="">underlever</SPAN> system..... or maybe I'm missing something obvious. Any help will be greatly appreciated. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>David C</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></DIV><BR> <DIV class=AOLInlineAttachment id=AOLMsgPart_4_cb3b596e-725c-4135-90bb-10f5cc101f30>[Image Removed] <BR></DIV> <DIV class=AOLPromoFooter> <HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px"> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at <A href="http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000437" target=_blank><B>AOL.com</B></A>.<BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>