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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I think that buying the first set, and then
replace the cord on the old set at your own convenience, is a good
option.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Mind you, you would have to do a set of each,
which you might never use. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>But all they cost was the cord, some glue and some
time at home.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></FONT></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=piannaman@aol.com
href="mailto:piannaman@aol.com">piannaman@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 02, 2007 3:13
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Spring cord replacement WITHOUT
butt plates,AKA answering my own question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN contentEditable=false style="DISPLAY: inline-block"></SPAN>Hi
List,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Several weeks back I asked this list if anyone knew of any methods to
expedite spring cord replacement on Yamahas that DON'T have the plates the
hold the center pins. Most everyone told me that they'd replace the
flanges. Paul McCloud suggested that it's easier to replace the
cords.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>While I thought I had a standard cord replacement job on a P2 today, it
turned out it was cord replacement on the non-plate variety! As I had
already blocked out a sizeable chunk of the day to do this job (with a bike
ride scheduled afterward..) I figured I'd go ahead and give it a
try. It took right around 5 hours. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Same basic formula:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Remove rest rail</DIV>
<DIV>Take hammers off the rail, flanges and all</DIV>
<DIV>remove old cord debris from slot, but I've found that being overly
meticulous about this step is a waste of time</DIV>
<DIV>wind your replacement cord around a 5/8 inch dowel many
times</DIV>
<DIV>Cut lengthwise to make cord pieces of the proper length</DIV>
<DIV>Glue one side</DIV>
<DIV>Go back and glue the other side </DIV>
<DIV>reattach spring</DIV>
<DIV>screw hammers back on to the rail</DIV>
<DIV>replace rail</DIV>
<DIV>PUt action back in piano</DIV>
<DIV>Go home</DIV>
<DIV>Have a glass of wine</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Notes: </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It's harder to glue the threads to the flanges as a moving
target hanging from the butt assembly than when the flanges are firmly
screwed to the hammer rail.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Keep a sharp blade around to keep the flange and the hammer assembly
detached when excess glue gets slopped in places where it shouldn't</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>With better gluing technique, I expect that this job could realistically
be done in 4 hours. Next time, I may try replacing the flanges, though I
suspect that will take longer.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I'm going to bed. I'll probably dream about applying glue to empty
slots....</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style="CLEAR: both">Dave Stahl, RPT<BR><BR>Dave Stahl Piano
Service<BR>650-224-3560<BR>dstahlpiano@sbcglobal.net<BR>http://dstahlpiano.net/<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV>
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