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<DIV>I did, Ron, which is why I went back to the sledge. I have typically drilled Steinway blocks and others like them at 4 1/2 to 5 degrees, and at the proper pin height end up with a take-out angle of "somewhere" around 88 to 89 degrees. To be honest I haven't measured it in years since it's gotten so consistent. The palm nailer method felt and proved to be too fast for my liking and for the feel of the pin entering the wood, efficiency aside. It's in a drawer somewhere if someone wants to buy it :-).</DIV>
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<DIV>Paul</DIV></DIV>
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<DIV><STRONG>"If you want to know the truth, stop having opinions" (Chinese fortune cookie)</STRONG></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>In a message dated 05/02/07 23:14:38 Central Daylight Time, rnossaman@cox.net writes:</DIV>
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<BR>> That's the way I see it. What do others have as a preference for tuning <BR>> pin angle relative to string angle? <BR>> <BR>> Terry Farrell <BR><BR>I like somewhere around 88°. That corresponds fairly well with <BR>the coil takeoff angle from the pin. Getting that angle is <BR>another problem. When I was driving pins with my 4lb hammer, I <BR>could drill the block at a specific angle and the pin would be <BR>at that angle after I drove it in. Since I started using a <BR>palm nailer, things changed. For reasons I haven't been able <BR>to define, pins driven with the palm nailer, especially if <BR>there's some tension on the string, will migrate and rotate <BR>toward the bridge. I've had a couple of pianos end up with the <BR>pins nearly on the rear edge of the plate webbing holes, and <BR>with little or no back lean. Using a transfer punch larger <BR>than the pin, and smaller than the plate hole, I can mark the <BR>pin locations forward of center, and add a couple of degrees <BR>to the drilling angle to get the things to center at the <BR>pitch angle I want after driving them. <BR><BR>Who else has run into this with palm nailers? <BR>Ron N <BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
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