<html> <body> Mr. Wright, The soldering iron brass key bushing cauls are available from PianoTek Supply.  They also sell rheostats to control the heat.  The point is to be able to drop water on the caul and have a drip evaporate off as opposed to phoosing off into steam.  Ie, a wool friendly temperature.  I use this for wool bushings that just won't stay sized.  The cauls from PianoTek are sized so you can size the bushings within 0.005 of the keypin.  They're useful for encouraging stubborn bushings out too.   Never thought carpenters glue was that difficult to remove...  How about PVC-E? Andrew Anderson At 06:36 PM 5/18/2007, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">oh yes, Terry, I've heard people mention this felt wedge technique: so, should I presume that you have 88 little wedges for all the keys? This technique sounds like it might be even more focused than just soaking the bushings. I like the brass caul/soldering iron idea - I'll have to make a tip like that for my soldering  iron. Sounds like the cat's meow... Cheers, Allen Wright, RPT London, UK On 19 May 2007, at 00:04, Farrell wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">I've never tried wallpaper remover with water - although I hear very good results are had with that combo. I have always used denatured alcohol & water - about 50/50 on both damper felts and key bushing felts. Once the felt has been wetted, one can switch to straight water. The 50/50 initial ratio seems to not be critical at all. If hide glue had been used, after several hours of soaking, felt simply falls off - no cutting, tugging, scraping - no nothing - felt simply falls off.   For white-type glue in key bushings, I have soaked with alcohol/water overnight. I place small wedges of dense felt in the mortise to hold moisture right at the key bushings. Then I hit each bushing with a very quick application of a dedicated hot key bushing ironing brass piece in the soldering iron. The quick blast of heat on the soaked bushing gives the bushing glue a shot of steam and makes them all but fall out. Unfortunately there remains some glue residue on the wood.  :-(   I wish it were a law to only used hot hide glue on key bushings. Pa-foo-ee on anyone that doesn't. ;-)   Terry Farrell <dl> <dd>----- Original Message ----- <dd>  <dd>While we're on this subject - I just introduced the notion of using a damper felt removal solution (diluted wallpaper remover and vinegar) rather than the manly (or womanly) slicing off and sanding of old felts (the old-fashioned method they've been using here), into the milieu of the Steinway London Restoration Centre, where I've been working for the last few months. Lightbulbs went on above heads when they realized how much time they won't be wasting anymore if they incorporate this cheeky American technique : ) <dd>I've always figured that the ratios of the different ingredients were not particularly crucial - just a well-diluted solution. Does anyone have any comments on that? Is the vinegar really necessary? I think my solution morphed over the years from one including alcohol-water-vinegar to the present one, for vaguely remembered reasons.... <dd>For keybushing removal here, they've been using pure "meths'", which as far as i can tell is a mix of ethanol and methanol (yikes - isn't that toxic?) and lots of tugging and slicing. I think the American solution will be an improvement with that, as well. <dd>I know: steam and wet cloth works very well on key bushings also, but that's probably a little too radical too present here. <dd>I'd be curious to hear if there are any other ideas on glue softening solutions. This one works best with hide glue, naturally. Anybody have a solution for white and other more stubborn glues? <dd>Sincerely, <dd>Allen Wright, RPT <dd>London, UK </dl></blockquote></blockquote></body> </html>