<HTML><HEAD> <META charset=US-ASCII http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff"> <DIV>In a message dated 5/24/2007 6:47:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Terry writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks for the input Bob. That's kinda what I thought, but my drill press has a taper piece that is part of the press - and then the chuck goes on it - the chuck is the female part and the part that is integral with the drill press is the male tapered piece. So I might be able to put a very large chuck on my counterbore tool, but I don't have any machine that I can install the male tapered tool into. Your Jet drill press has a female piece that will accept a tapered piece like my counterbore tool?</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">Yes, my Jet is a female taper, with the male on the chuck. Usually on lathes and whatnot, the tool is male. With chucks it's sometimes different - see</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"><A href="http://www.newmantools.com/tech/taper.htm#jacobs">http://www.newmantools.com/tech/taper.htm#jacobs</A></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">"Most often, a drill chuck arbor has a longer end that is either a straight shank or a male Morse Taper to fit into a drill press. The other, shorter end of the arbor is a male Jacobs taper to fit into a drill chuck. If a drill press has a non-removable male spindle, the taper is usually 33 Jacobs Taper." <P> <HR align=left width=250 SIZE=3> <B>JACOBS TAPERS</B> <P></P><PRE>JACOBS LARGE SMALL TAPER# DIAMETER DIAMETER LENGTH --------------------------------------- 0 .25000" .22844 .43750 1 .38400 .33341 .65625 2 .55900 .48764 .87500 2 short .54880 .48764 .75000 3 .81100 .74610 1.21875 4 1.12400 1.03720 1.65625 5 1.41300 1.31611 1.87500 6 .67600 .62409 1.00000 33 .62401 .56051 1.00000 ---------------------------------------</PRE> <P> <HR align=left> <P></P> <P><A name=morse></A><B>MORSE TAPERS</B></P><PRE> LARGE SMALL MORSE DIAMETER DIAMETER TAPER# (A) (B) LENGTH --------------------------------------- 0 .36510" .25200 1-15/16 1 .47500 .36900 2-1/16 2 .70000 .57200 2-1/2 3 .93800 .77800 3-1/16 4 1.23100 1.02000 3-7/8 4-1/2 1.50000 1.26600 4-5/16 5 1.74800 1.47500 4-15/16 6 2.49400 2.11600 7 7 3.27000 2.75000 9-1/2 </PRE></FONT></DIV></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>What does anyone else do to trim agraffes? Just do 'em by hand? Sure don't like that idea!  ;-)</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">Yes, because one isn't usually removing more than a scrape or two. The end mill makes pretty quick work of it. I jumped on the tool part of your question, but David Love addressed the other part, which is whether it's a good idea to trim them down more than that. I think I'm with him on that.</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Always looking for the easy way out,</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">A noble goal. I'm with you on that.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style">Bob Davis</FONT></DIV><BR><BR><BR><DIV><FONT style="color: black; font: normal 10pt ARIAL, SAN-SERIF;"><HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px">See what's free at <A title="http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503" href="http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503" target="_blank">AOL.com</A>. </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>