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<div>At 2:37 pm -0600 3/6/07, Michael Spreeman wrote:</div>
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<blockquote type="cite" cite>I have taken sample pieces of
ebony and attempted to notch them by hand with disastrous
results. Ebony is so hard and brittle that it wants to chip and
split, even with the sharpest of chisels and shallow cuts. I've
approached it from the top down and by coming in from the side.
The side cutting method works well with Hornbeam, but doesn't seem to
do well with the harder ebony. Do any of you master woodworkers
have any suggestions (short of not using ebony 8-)
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<div>Something seemed incongruous here, so I took some ebony and tried
it. Conclusion : either what you have is not ebony or it's not
what I know as ebony. What you describe sounds to me more like
the way old ebonized pearwood would behave; does it smell sharp and
acrid and dusty?</div>
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<div>I took an ebony sharp and _roughly_ notched it with a 1/2"
chisel and found no tendency to split or chip. I would describe
its texture as very hard "waxy" or "cheesy",
similar in working to the Rio rosewood of the 19th century (Dalbergia
Nigra?), responding very well to the plane and chisel and leaving a
fine silky surface. The pores are visible but very fine, much
finer than walnut.</div>
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<div>I recently worked on the rather dreadful 'Simplex' action of a
German 4'9" baby grand by a firm called Emil Pauer. The
power and brilliance of the tone of the piano was rather surprising,
and I noticed that the long bridge was capped with rosewood for all
its length, which I had never seen before. Many of the best
European makers capped the top section with boxwood, as you must
know. It's unlikely that they did not also experient with
rosewood, ebony and African blackwood and unlikely, I think, that they
chose boxwood only for its easy colour blending with the beech or
maple.</div>
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<div>If you want to go really extreme, try Delignit Panzerholz, but to
notch that by hand you'd need tungsten carbide chisels and the strecth
of an ox!</div>
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<div>JD</div>
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