<html><div style='background-color:'>"..the jack top should be below the yoke of the balancier.." Ah, my mistake! I misread one of my manuals...the first one I found in my own language, I got confused due to the new names of the parts:).... I'm in gratitutional awe now, my regulating skills have already improved! Thanks <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #a0c6e5 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <HR color=#a0c6e5 SIZE=1> From: Andrew and Rebeca Anderson <anrebe@sbcglobal.net> Reply-To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org> To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org> Subject: Re: Keep on filing... Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 09:54:23 -0500 Danilo, With the repetition at rest and the hammers rotated up and out of the way, the jack top should be below the yoke of the balancier.  Ideally not much below.  This is necessary lost motion in order to permit the jack to re-set.  You can check by using a card and dragging it over the yoke.  If the card catches on the jack, the jack is too high. A Steinway regulation method to check this when the hammer is resting on the repetitions is to press the jack tender down, let go and the jack should reset winking the hammer a little.  If the hammer doesn't wink, you have more lost motion then necessary.  If the jack cannot reset consistently, you don't have enough. I like to regulate drop close to the strings and I like to have drop and let-off coincide.  This does make the instruments more weather sensitive as a 1 - 1.5 mil drop is not much where humidity related wood movement is concerned.  Of-course the instruments that get that kind of regulation are usually climate controlled here. This requires a definite but slow rise of the hammer with the repetition spring.  Springs are not easy to get just so and you will have to develop the skill of setting them by repeated effort until you start getting the result you want.  You want to be able to avoid bubbling/double-striking which occurs when balancier pinning is too loose and or when the spring is too strong. It is important to note that many action adjustments are interactive with other adjustments.  That is, when you change one, the other is thrown out.  On a new piano or when an action is worn, I will go through several times adjusting and readjusting as things get closer to ideal.  You may want to obtain an action regulation book that takes you through the steps in order of greatest efficiency.  Yamaha sells a video from their website on action adjustments.  I recommend it.  There are some differences in approach between instruments, Steinway follows a slightly different procedure for example, but the overall illustration is worth becoming familiar with visually. Andrew Anderson, Artisan Piano At 08:12 AM 6/20/2007, you wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="">Thanks, Tony, I enjoyed this mail! I use this Steinway O to give concerts in this church. A few years back I had a tuner tune it. When he was finished, I asked him "So, any problems? -No. Loose pins? -No. False beats? -No Action issues? -No." I was quite baffled. I even tried to convince him that something must be improvable by playing a bit and asking "Is this or that really supposed to be like this, ideally? -Yes, it's fine." Then he added "Just avoid the sun, it makes it go out of tune faster." Well, it gave me another reason to teach myself. On the opposite end, I gave a recital in a church on a 70's Steinway B, which the organist had hired someone to renovate for ca $15000. The members of his constitution were forever complaining "Did you really have to spend so much money?" He asked me to help him out by taking every opportunity to praise the instrument. Which I dutifully did. "The best piano I've ever played on, it's as good as a brand new one, and they cost bla bla, it's amazing what value you can get from such a perfect restoration!" It was easy, as I was speaking the truth... About the position of the jack, you wrote "..the repetition regulating screw at the hammer end of the repetition lever requires adjusting to allow the top of the jack to be just below the top of the repetition lever." I thought it was suppposed to be just above the top of the repetition lever? And I've adjusted it that way. Please be so kind as to confirm this! Or do you mean the position of the jack at the moment the hammer is released from check and lifted up by the repetion lever? "Your drop screw may be too low stopping the repetition lever going up high enough" I've set it to make the drop about a mm or so, relying on my eyesight. You've given me some new things to look out for, so next time I get to the instrument, I'll check everything carefully: I'll try to add some weight to the hammer shank (someone wrote somewhere about wrapping a bit of solderingmetal around the shank?) and carefully observe the relative positions of the jack/repetitionlever from rest to full depression of the key and back. Anything else I should think of? Thanks! Danilo <HR> Dags för jobbintervju? <A href="http://g.msn.com/8HMBSVSE/2755??PS=47575">Här får du bra tips</A> </BLOCKQUOTE> </BLOCKQUOTE></div> <hr>Se dina favoriter live! <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMBSVSE/2731??PS=47575" target="_top">Världsartisterna syns på MSN</a> </html>