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<DIV>I am not sure what you mean by italic V. This seems to imply a different profile on either side of the V-bar. Since the advent of CNC machining, it has been common practice to use such tooling to accurately create the V-bar shape and elevation. The most critical concern was to accurately control the string elevation at the strike point. Commonly, the same tool is used to machine both sides of the v-bar, resulting in symmetrical shape, which I would describe as V-shaped, with a slightly rounded bottom "point."</DIV>
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<DIV>Frank Emerson</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=pianotech@a440piano.net href="mailto:pianotech@a440piano.net">William R. Monroe</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 6/28/2007 4:01:25 PM </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Why NOT to polish bass strings.......</DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>Hey Apprentice David and others,</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>I came up with an idea for filing the capo. It is my understanding that the capo is typically NOT a "V" shape, but more like an italicized "v" e.g.: <EM>v. </EM>I've taken a couple molds in the past, and it seems to bear out. So, I decided to put the mold idea to use. Currently getting a Kawai Grand ready for restringing, and need to file the capo. I took a stick of Wood Epoxy, kneaded it up, laid a piece of emery cloth on top of it, and taped it up to the capo while it dried. So the paper is against the capo, epoxy behind paper, then the tape. I figured the layer of emory cloth was important to create a profile that was accurate with the paper in.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>One challenge was making sure I had something to squeeze the epoxy in tight to the capo on the sides. I ended up taping it up with some dowel stock on either side to keep it squeezed tight.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>Next, once the epoxy was dry, I trimmed the excess on the band say, and epoxied my little profile into a cork block for something convenient to hang on to. Now I have a capo file that fits the original capo profile (assuming that the original is a desirable one).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>Probably don't need to make one each time, just find (create) a profile you like, make a mold, and <EM>viola</EM>, you now have a capo filing tool.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>Enjoy,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Bookman Old Style" size=2>William R. Monroe</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV>Tha capo area tone can undergo a radical positive change with proper profiling and polishing; many times we just restring the capo area (the top two treble sections) on a performance piano---and "V-out" the capo bar---file it to make the termination area narrower---and then polish it to make sure the string cuts in the soft metal are gone.</DIV>
<DIV>Lift, level, and stabilize the new strings, and the piano sings in the money area---the Holy Grail of every good player.</DIV>
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<DIV>David "Always an Apprentice" Andersen </DIV><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>