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<font size="+1">Jon,<br>
<br>
I like this approach. Not only are you replacing the cords, but the
action is getting some upgrading (repinning, hammer shaping, etc.)
while you have the parts on the bench. Very efficient and thorough and
the customer can notice the difference.<br>
<br>
One addendum to my procedure since you mention it: you either have to
make a 9/16" dowel, </font><font size="+1">if you have a lathe,</font><font
size="+1"> to get your 44 mm cord lengths, or you can wrap cord around
a piece of wood that's, say, 17 mm x 5 mm (x whatever length) to get
that same "circumference."<br>
<br>
I've never measured the spring tension but have just eyeballed the
position of the springs in their relaxed state for fairly even pressure
on the cords, and mostly straightening any bent ones. I'll be taking
readings on the next job, though. Thanks.<br>
</font><br>
Best,<br>
Tom Cole<br>
<br>
<br>
Jon Page wrote:
<blockquote cite="mida06240834c2aa1f3ce71d@%5B192.168.0.161%5D"
type="cite">
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<title>Yamaha Spring Tension</title>
<div>> 40 grams measured at the
spring is roughly </div>
<div> >equivalent to 20 grams
measured at the flange. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks Frank, that's what I'm getting when I open the
spring</div>
<div>so as to have the arms in line at 180 degrees (the
resulting</div>
<div>angle is around 130 degrees) and attach to the loop.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I'll enter this info into my Action Handbook in the Yamaha
section</div>
<div>along with 44mm cord length which is achieved by wrapping
the</div>
<div>cord around a 9/16" dowel and slicing along the length of
the dowel.</div>
<div>Glueing cord ends onto the flange 10mm on each side of the
yoke.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I remove the hammers/flanges from the rail, number each and
separate.</div>
<div>This way I can file the hammers on the oscillating spindle
sander
and</div>
<div>decide if repinning is in order. Secure the flanges in a vise to
clean the</div>
<div>flange grooves and install the new cord. Assemble units, open
spring, hook.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I might even opt to taper the hammers slightly. RIght side in
the
bass,</div>
<div>left side in the tenor and both sides in the treble.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Tom Cole's procedure is here (see photo at end):</div>
<div>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/2006-December/198869.html">https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/2006-December/198869.html</a> </div>
<pre>--
</pre>
<div><br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
Jon Page</div>
</blockquote>
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